he  Fox  Hound 


~  y      Roger      D.     Williams 


I 


THE  FOXHOUND 


CHAMPION-SCRAPE,    FIELD-TR1AL-WINNER,    BRED 
AND    OWNED    BY    THE    AUTHOR 


FULL   ENGLISH    FOXHOUND    GALLIARD,    IMPORTED 
BY    THE   AUTHOR 


THE 
FOXHOUND 

BY 

ROGER  D.  WILLIAMS 

AUTHOR  OF   "HORSE   AND   HOUND,"   "THE   BLOOD- 
HOUND," ETC. 


©-U3WG 
HANDBOOKS 


Number  38 


NEW  YORK 
OUTING  PUBLISHING  COMPANY 

MCMXIV 


COPYRIGHT,  1914,  BT 
OUTING  PUBLISHING  COMPANY 

All  rights  reserved 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  *AGS 

FOREWORD 5 

I.  THE  FOXHOUND 13 

II.  BREEDING  AND  TRAINING  HOUNDS  27 

III.  TRAINING  AND  HUNTING       .     .  39 

IV.  FEEDING      .     .     .     .     .     .     .  63 

V.  KENNELS     .......  73 

VI.  DISEASES  AND  REMEDIES  ...     87 
VII.  THE  BENCH  SHOW     .     .     .     .113 

VIII.  DONT'S  .     .     .     ...  ....  .'  ...    .   119 

GLOSSARY  OF  TECHNICAL  TERMS  127 
FOXHOUND  FIELD  TRIAL  .     ,.     .   130 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

PACE 

CKampion  Scrape — English  Fox- 
hound,  Galliard      ....   Frontispiece 
Typical  American  Foxhound        .      .      .      16 
Plan  of  Kennels  and  Yard     ....     75 


FOREWORD 

FOXHUNTING  is  not  only  a  recreation 
and  amusement,  but  the  science  of  an  art 
in  which  but  few  obtain  proficiency.  It  is 
one  of  the  few  sports  that  is  not  more  or  less 
tainted  with  professionalism.  My  experiences 
in  the  field  and  saddle  during  a  quarter  of  a 
century  of  breeding  and  hunting  hounds  are 
given  herein,  and  I  trust  may  prove  of  benefit 
to  the  rapidly  increasing  devotees  of  a  sport 
that  eminently  encourages  companionable  qual- 
ities in  man,  is  conducive  to  good  health,  and 
is  frequently  the  means  of  cementing  lifelong 
friendships. 

This  book  is  written  more  for  the  benefit  of 
the  country  gentlemen  of  moderate  means  who 
"  rides  to  hunt "  than  for  the  fashionable  an- 
glomaniac  with  money  who  "hunts  to  ride" 
and  thinks  foxhunting  a  most  fascinating  and 
enviable  pursuit  in  the  abstract. 


THE   FOXHOUND 


CHAPTER  I 

THE  FOXHOUND 

THE  character,  sensibilities,  and  intellect- 
ual faculties  of  the  Foxhound  are  but 
little  known;  they  are,  unfoitunately, 
considered  rather  stupid  and  uninteresting  than 
otherwise  by  the  majority  of  the  people  in 
this  country,  especially  those  unacquainted  with 
the  mysteries  of  hound  lore.  In  England  for 
hundreds  of  years  they  have  been  held  in  the 
highest  esteem  for  their  splendid  intelligence, 
their  inexhaustible  courage,  and  unequaled  en- 
durance, qualities  that  are  indispensable  in  add- 
ing to  the  pleasure  of  her  sportsmen,  and  there 
is  no  gainsaying  the  fact  that  the  popularity  of 
the  hound  has  rapidly  increased  in  this  country 
during  the  past  quarter  of  a  century. 

The  origin  of  the  breed  is  clouded  somewhat 
in  mystery.    Being  lost  in  remote  antiquity,  it 
has  been  the  subject  of  debate  and  deep  re- 
search among  sportsmen  from  time  immemorial. 
13 


14  THE  FOXHOUND 

However,  it  is  generally  conceded  to  be  the 
result  of  judicious  crossing  between  the  Blood- 
hound and  the  ancient  Greyhound.  This  un- 
doubtedly is  true,  as  a  first  cross  of  the  same 
breeds  to-day  will  produce  a  hound  with  many 
of  the  characteristics  and  qualities  of  the  Fox- 
hound. As  to  the  antiquity  of  the  Foxhound, 
if  the  writings  of  Gervase  Markham  in  1631 
are  to  relied  upon,  hounds  were  used  in  the 
chase  of  the  fox  as  early  as  1613. 

Our  old  time  native  Foxhounds  were  un- 
doubtedly degenerated  Bloodhounds,  and  to  the 
infusion  of  English,  Irish,  and  French  blood 
are  we  indebted  for  the  vast  improvement,  es- 
pecially in  conformation,  size,  and  some  of  the 
better  qualities.  It  is  generally  understood  that 
they  were  imported  from  England,  but  exactly 
when  and  by  whom  we  have  no  authentic  re- 
cord. While  believing  that  they  are  largely 
descended  from  the  English  hound,  there  is 
no  doubt  in  my  mind  that  the  French  hound 
plays  equally  as  important  a  part  in  their 
origin.  Lafayette  sent  over  a  large  pack  of 
French  hounds,  this  being  the  first  pack  of 
hounds  we  have  any  record  of  as  having  been 
imported  into  the  United  States  as  a  pack, 
though  individual  hounds  had  been  previously 
brought  over  from  England. 


THE   FOXHOUND  15 

If  we  can  rely  upon  shape,  conformation, 
hound  characteristics,  and  general  appearance, 
then  we  are  indebted  more  to  the  French  than 
the  English  hound  for  our  original  stock.  I 
have  seen  many  packs  in  different  parts  of 
France  that  certainly  resemble  our  old  time 
native  black  and  tan,  long  eared,  long  headed, 
high  peaked,  deep  mouthed  hounds,  much  more 
than  the  English  hound,  though  the  present 
American  hound  judged  by  the  National  Fox- 
hunters  Association  more  closely  resembles  the 
English. 

As  far  back  as  the  Revolutionary  War  the 
chief  sport  and  pastime  of  the  South  was  hunt- 
ing, and  while  no  regular  organized  hunts  were 
established,  every  Southern  gentleman  of  means 
had  his  own  hounds  and  was  as  proud  and 
jealous  of  their  reputation  as  of  those  of  his 
horses  and  his  family.  While  at  this  period  no 
tabulated  pedigrees  were  kept,  nor  hounds  reg- 
istered, no  stud  book  having  been  established, 
each  owner  was  as  careful  in  the  breeding  of 
his  hounds  to  good  performers  only  as  he  was 
of  his  racers.  In  the  North  at  this  period  a 
few  straggling  individual  hounds  were  owned, 
not  to  chase  the  fox,  but  to  drive  him  and  deer 
within  range  of  a  ten-bore  gun  waiting  to  per- 
forate their  pelts  with  buck  shot. 


16 


THE  FOXHOUND 


The  American  Foxhound,  while  different  in 
some  respects  from  the  English,  should  be 
judged  upon  the  same  value  of  points.  The 
American  hound  should  be  the  smaller  and 
lighter  in  muscle  and  bone,  dogs  should  not 
be  under  21  nor  over  24  inches  nor  weigh 


TYPICAL    AMERICAN    FOXHOUND 


1.  Nose.  9.  Top  of  shoul-  14.  Elbow. 

2.  Flews  or  Chaps.  der  blades  or  15.  Fore-arm. 

3.  Nasal  Bone.  "shoulder."      T 

tfSfi.         "^^ 

6.  Occiput.  ii.  Shoulder-blade  l 

7.  Dewlap    (where  or  scapula.       IO-  Stern. 

such   exists).    12.  Rump -bone.        20.  Chest. 

8.  Brisket.  13.  Arm.  21.  Pasterns. 


THE   FOXHOUND  17 

more  than  60  pounds.  Bitches  should  not  be 
under  20  nor  over  23  inches,  nor  weigh  more 
than  53  pounds. 

The  head  (Value  15,  see  Summary)  should 
be  of  medium  size  with  muzzle  in  harmonious 
proportions.  The  skull  should  be  rounded 
crosswise  with  slight  peak-line,  profile  nearly 
straight — with  sufficient  stop  to  give  symmetry 
to  head.  Ears  medium — not  long — thin,  soft 
in  coat,  low  set,  and  closely  pendant.  Eyes  soft, 
medium  size,  and  varying  shades  of  brown. 
Nostrils  slightly  expanded.  Head  as  a  whole, 
should  denote  hound  "  character." 

The  neck  (value  5)  must  be  clean  and  of 
good  length,  slightly  arched,  strong  where  it 
springs  from  the  shoulder,  and  gradually  taper- 
ing to  the  head  without  trace  of  throatiness. 
The  shoulders  (value  10)  should  be  of  suf- 
ficient length  to  give  good  leverage  and  power, 
well  sloped,  muscular,  but  clean  run  and  not  too 
broad.  Chest  and  back  ribs  (value  10)  :  the 
chest  should  be  deep  for  lung  space,  narrower 
in  proportion  to  depth  than  the  English  hound, 
28  inches  in  24-inch  hound  being  good.  Well 
sprung  ribs,  back  ribs  should  extend  well  back', 
a  three-inch  flank  allowing  springiness.  The 
back  and  loin  (value  10)  should  be  broad, 
short,  and  strong,  slightly  arched. 


18  THE  FOXHOUND 

The  hindquarters  and  lower  thighs  (value 
10)  must  be  well  muscled  and  very  strong.  The 
stifles  should  be  low,  not  too  much  bent  nor  yet 
too  straight,  a  happy  medium.  The  elbows 
(value  5)  should  be  straight,  neither  in  or  out. 
Legs  and  feet  (value  20)  are  of  great  import- 
ance. Legs  should  be  straight  and  placed 
squarely  under  shoulder,  having  plenty  of  bone 
without  clumsiness;  strong  pasterns  well  stood 
upon.  Feet  round,  cat-like,  not  too  large,  toes 
well  knuckled,  close  and  compact,  strong  nails, 
pad  thick,  tough,  and  indurated  by  use.  Color 
and  coat  (value  5)  black,  white,  and  tan  pre- 
ferable, though  the  solids  and  various  pies  are 
permissible.  Coat  should  be  rough  and  coarse 
without  being  wiry  or  shaggy. 

Symmetry  (value  5)  :  the  form  of  hound 
should  be  harmonious  throughout;  he  should 
show  his  blood  quality  and  hound  character 
in  every  aspect  and  movement.  If  he  scores 
high  in  other  properties,  symmetry  is  bound  to 
follow.  The  stern  (value  5)  must  be  strong 
in  bone  at  root,  of  medium  length  carried  like 
a  saber  on  line  with  the  spine,  and  must  have 
good  brush;  a  docked  stern  should  not  dis- 
qualify, but  simply  handicap  according  to  ex- 
tent of  docking. 


THE  FOXHOUND  19 

SUMMARY 

Head   15 

Neck    5 

Shoulders    10 

Chest  and  ribs 10 

Back  and   loins 10 

Hindquarters    and    lower   thighs....  10 

Elbows    5 

Legs  and  feet 20 

Color   and   coat 5 

Stern    5 

Symmetry    5 

100 

FAULTS  IN  HOUND  CONSTRUCTION 
Head  too  short  and  thick. 
Neck  short  and  throaty. 
Shoulder  upright  and  loaded. 
Lack  of  muscle. 
Not  straight  below  the  knee. 
Hind  leg  too  straight. 
Long  flat  foot. 

Hock  not  close  enough  to  ground. 
Slack  loin,  sway  back. 
Shallow  chest.     Flat  side. 
A  narrow  chest. 
Head  lacking  hound  quality. 
Crooked  and  light  boned  legs. 
Improperly  set  or  carried  stern. 
Loose  flat  feet. 


20  THE  FOXHOUND 

FAULTS  IN  FIELD 

Too  slow. 

Bad  caster. 

Potterer. 

Reader. 

Skirter. 

Rioter. 

QUALITIES 

The  extraordinary  scenting  powers  of  a 
hound  are  as  unlimited  as  they  are  unrivaled, 
and  never  cease  to  be  a  wonder  to  the  novice. 
The  instinct  to  pursue  and  kill  is  a  second  na- 
ture in  the  hound  and  they  seem  to  derive  an 
insatiable  pleasure  from  indulging  it.  Nature 
has  endowed  them  with  an  enduring  patience 
and  courage  that  enable  them,  hungry,  fatigued, 
footsore  and  exhausted,  to  continue  the  chase 
although  every  step  is  painful  to  a  degree. 
Hounds  have  been  known  to  run  a  fox  or  deer 
twenty-four  hours  continuously  without  food 
or  rest.  Bitches  have  been  known  to  whelp  in 
a  chase,  and  an  authentic  case  is  on  record  of  a 
bitch  whelping  a  pup  and  taking  it  in  her  mouth 
and  continuing  the  run. 

The  question  whether  bitches  are  better  than 


THE  FOXHOUND  21 

dogs  in  the  field  is  a  mooted  one.  I  am  rather 
inclined  to  think  they  are,  though  I  know  of 
ma.ny  experienced  hunters  who  hold  to  'the 
other  theory.  In  England  the  lady  packs 
(bitches)  are  hunted  separately  and  are  con- 
sidered both  faster  and  quicker,  but  I  am  in- 
clined to  think  that  is  because  they  are  smaller; 
were  the  dogs  the  same  size  and  build,  I  do  not 
think  the  difference  would  be  as  apparent, 
though  slightly  in  favor  of  bitches.  In  this 
country  where  less  attention  is  paid  to  appear- 
ance, size,  and  sortiness  of  a  pack,  dogs  and 
bitches  are  hunted  together,  and  as  dogs  are 
undoubtedly  freer  with  their  tongues,  while 
bitches  have  more  dash  and  vim  though  are 
less  steady,  they  undoubtedly  make  a  strong 
combination  in  working  together. 

It  is  a  widely  discussed  question  and  much 
has  been  written  upon  the  relative  merits  of 
the  American  and  English  hounds.  In  touch- 
ing upon  this  subject  I  shall  attempt  to  give  a 
fair  and  impartial  statement  as  seen  from  my 
viewpoint.  I  have  also  advised  with  others 
whom  I  consider  authorities  upon  the  subject, 
being  hunters  of  wide  experience  who,  like  my- 
self, have  imported,  bred,  raised,  and  hunted 
English  hounds  of  the  very  best  strains  to  be 
had.  In  the  matter  of  breeding  true  to  type 


22  THE  FOXHOUND 

we  must  yield  the  palm  to  the  English.  In  the 
art  and  science  of  breeding  they  are  not  only 
the  peers  but  the  superiors  of  all  other  nations, 
and  this  applies  to  all  domestic  animals  as  well 
as  the  horse  and  hound.  As  to  hounds,  they 
have  established  a  high  standard  of  excellence, 
as  to  size,  symmetry,  conformation,  and  beauty 
of  form  and  style,  and  breed  for  these  quali- 
ties to  the  detriment  of  nose,  speed,  endurance, 
and  fox  sense. 

While  we  must  admit  that  an  even,  level, 
sorty-looking  pack,  well  balanced  in  size,  color, 
and  markings,  is  pleasing  to  the  eye,  yet  none 
of  these  qualities  can  compare  with  those  of 
nose,  speed,  endurance  and  fox  sense  when  it 
comes  to  hunting  foxes  in  America.  We  admit 
that  the  English  are  far  our  superiors  in  breed- 
ing, and  had  they  for  the  past  two  hundred 
years  employed  their  ability  and  efforts  to  per- 
fect hounds  in  the  latter  qualities,  they  would 
undoubtedly  have  produced  a  hound  that  could 
come  to  this  country  and  eclipse  any  of  our 
hounds  in  the  field  instead  of  taking  position 
as  second-raters,  as  they  invariably  do. 

The  hunting  in  England  does  not  call  for 
the  possession  of  the  same  qualities  as  in 
America.  There  the  climatic  and  atmospheric 
conditions  are  generally  favorable  especially  in 


THE  FOXHOUND  28 

the  moist  grass  countries,  where  trailing  con- 
ditions are  such  that  scent  hangs  breast  high 
and  a  hound  with  half  a  nose  could  run  at  top 
speed.  The  coverts  are  convenient  and  small, 
the  huntsman  knows  within  a  few  hundred 
yards  of  where  the  fox  "  uses  "  and  can  lay 
his  hand  on  the  line  any  time.  The  foxes  are 
fat,  sleek,  and  well  fed,  and  in  an  untrained 
condition  a  straightaway  run  of  eight  or  ten 
miles  is  uncommon.  The  run  seldom  exceeds 
one  and  a  half  or  two  hours  once  in  a  dozen 
chases.  If  check  or  loss  is  made,  the  hounds 
have  the  assistance  of  huntsmen,  whippers-in, 
stoppers,  and  the  hunter  in  regaining  the  line. 
The  problem  that  confronts  the  American 
hounds  is  an  altogether  different  matter.  Our 
coverts  and  forests  are  extremely  large.  The 
foxes,  remaining  wild  and  timid,  seldom  pass 
twenty-four  hours  without  a  run  of  four  to 
eight  hours,  the  hounds  frequently  running 
them  by  themselves  without  hunters. 


BREEDING  AND  RAISING 


CHAPTER  II 

BREEDING   AND    RAISING    HOUNDS 

THE  English  are  without  question  the 
most  successful  breeders  in  the  world, 
'and  with  the  exception  of  the  horse  they 
have  probably  paid  more  attention  to  the 
breeding  of  the  Foxhound  than  of  any  other 
animal,  and  have  certainly  paid  more  attention 
to  the  breeding  of  the  hound  than  all  other 
nations  combined.  Unfortunately  for  us,  how- 
ever, their  country  and  methods  of  hunting  re- 
quire an  altogether  different  hound  from  that 
which  is  called  for  in  this  country. 

With  them  a  hound  is  condemned  for  faults 
in  construction,  size,  and  even  marking  before 
he  has  even  had  a  trial  in  the  field,  and  after  a 
trial  the  hounds  are  again  culled  or  "  drafted," 
as  they  call  it,  for  faults  that  may  interfere  with 
their  usefulness  (from  their  viewpoint)  in  the 
future.  Unfortunately  for  the  looks,  symme- 
try, and  conformation  of  our  hounds,  this  cus- 
27 


28  THE  FOXHOUND 

torn  does  not  prevail  to  any  extent  in  this 
country  and  should  be  judiciously  encouraged. 
I  am  afraid  that  we  have  adopted  the  "  hand- 
some is  as  handsome  does  "  policy  too  freely. 

The  efficiency  of  the  hounds  depends  entirely 
upon  the  breeding,  and  to  maintain  a  pack  or 
strain  up  to  the  required  standard  of  excel- 
lence continual  selection  of  superior  animals  is 
necessary.  One  of  the  soundest  principles  of 
breeding  is  that  the  longer  certain  desirable 
qualities  have  been  handed  down  from  genera- 
tion to  generation  the  more  certainly  you  can 
depend  upon  a  continuance  of  the  same. 
Heredity  is  undoubtedly  the  strongest  force  in 
nature.  To  be  sure,  it  does  not  control  the 
individual  peculiarities  of  a  sire  or  dam,  but 
where  these  characteristics  existed  for  several 
generations  we  may  expect  many  of  them,  and 
the  farther  back  they  extend  the  larger  and 
more  pronounced  will  be  their  percentage. 

Stonehenge  says  inbreeding  is  not  injurious 
to  the  dog,  as  has  been  proven  by  theory  and 
practice.  On  the  other  hand,  Darwin  says  in- 
breeding diminishes  vigor  and  fertility.  Some 
claim  that  by  inbreeding  alone  one  can  fix  and 
perpetuate  good  qualities  in  succeeding  genera- 
tions. My  experience  is  that  inbreeding,  when 
judiciously  and  not  excessively  practiced,  is 


BREEDING  AND   RAISING   29 

essential  to  type  and  many  necessary  qualities 
in  the  hound,  but  carried  to  too  great  an  ex- 
treme it  unquestionably  stunts  growth  and 
weakens  both  constitution  and  intelligence. 
The  most  glaring  contradiction  of  this  rule  is 
in  the  case  of  game  chickens,  as  those  incestu- 
ously  bred  are  gamer,  stronger,  and  more  am- 
bitious than  others. 

In  inbreeding,  the  mating  of  sire  and  dam 
with  daughter  and  son  is  unquestionably  prefer- 
able to  mating  brother  and  sister.  Once  cross- 
ing in,  twice  crossing  out  is  an  old  rule  and  a 
most  excellent  one  to  observe  in  hound  breed- 
ing. The  antiquity  of  the  hound  with  its  long 
line  of  breeding  makes  an  absolute  outcross 
(such,  for  instance,  as  the  Greyhound)  less 
dangerous  than  would  be  the  case  in  many 
modern  breeds.  The  influence  of  such  a  cross 
on  type  would  soon  be  entirely  obliterated. 
No  type  can  be  maintained  by  adhering  strictly 
to  the  best  selections  of  the  same  family,  there- 
fore rigidly  adhere  to  one  type,  no  matter  how 
great  the  temptation  may  be  to  do  otherwise, 
or  the  ultimate  destruction  of  type  will  follow. 

Due  attention  must  be  paid  to  joint  selection 
'of  sire  and  dam  and  the  possibilities  of  a  good 
cross  or  nick.  If  sire  and  dam  have  vigor, 
perfect  health,  and  strength,  it  is  fair  to  pre- 


30  THE  FOXHOUND 

sume  their  offspring,  with  proper  care  and  at- 
tention, will  inherit  these  same  qualities.  There 
is  absolutely  no  question  about  the  fact  of 
hounds  inheriting  qualities  of  hunting  more 
from  the  dam  than  from  the  sire,  while  the 
qualities  of  shape,  size,  and  conformation  come 
from  the  sire. 

Many  breeders  consider  pedigree  the  only 
consideration,  paying  but  little  attention  to  in- 
dividual excellences  or  qualities;  this  is  a  mis- 
take. Symmetry  is  never  the  result  of  chance 
or  luck,  but  of  careful  forethought  and  good 
judgment,  backed  by  a  practical  knowledge  of 
breeding.  It  is  a  gross  mistake  to  breed  good 
and  bad  specimens  together  simply  on  account 
of  their  pedigrees.  The  result  is  anything  but 
certain,  as  the  bad  qualities  are  as  apt  to  crop 
out  in  the  progeny  as  the  good,  if  not  in  the 
first  then  in  some  succeeding  generation.  A 
hound  with  bad  qualities  is  more  apt  to  perpet- 
uate them  in  his  progeny  than  he  is  to  throw 
back  to  better  qualities  possessed  by  his  blue- 
blooded  ancestors.  Therefore  in  breeding  for 
any  certain  desirable  quality,  for  instance,  color 
or  tongue,  do  not  fail  to  investigate  fully  all 
other  qualities,  good,  bad,  and  indifferent,  pos- 
sessed by  the  sire,  as  with  the  desired  qualities 
you  may  get  some  very  undesirable  ones. 


BREEDING  AND   RAISING   31 

Hound  bitches  generally  come  in  season 
when  eight  or  nine  months  old,  especially  those 
reaching  this  age  in  the  spring  months.  They 
should  never  be  bred  until  the  second  heat, 
which  in  this  case  should  be  in  the  fall.  It  is 
too  great  a  tax  on  the  energies  and  system  of 
the  bitch,  the  pups  are  apt  to  be  weak  and  puny, 
and  the  strain  may  affect  the  constitution  of 
the  bitch  through  life.  If  one  expects  strong, 
vigorous  pups  with  stamina  and  constitution 
when  they  attain  maturity,  they  should  never 
breed  a  bitch  under  eighteen  months  of  age. 

Bitches  generally  come  in  heat  every  six  ofl 
eight  months,  on  an  average  three  times  in  two 
years.  They  should  be  separated  from  the 
dogs  at  the  very  first  sign  of  heat,  which  are 
generally  excessive  spirits  and  playfulness,  un- 
due levity  on  the  part  of  the  quiet,  sedate  old 
lady  being  an  infallible  sign.  The  next  stage 
is  the  swelling  of  the  parts,  followed  by  the 
discharge.  If  it  is  a  strange  bitch,  let  her  be- 
come accustomed  to  her  new  surroundings  be- 
fore service.  Do  not  keep  near  dogs.  Remem- 
ber their  remarkable  noses  are  doubly  keen 
under  such  circumstances.  Take  the  greatest 
possible  precautions  to  isolate  her,  then  double 
your  precautions.  There  is  not  only  a  chance 
of  her  getting  out,  but  a  greater  one  of  dogs 


32  THE  FOXHOUND 

getting  in  to  her.  I  have  known  some  remark- 
able feats  of  both,  and  have  heard  of  some 
more  incredible  ones. 

It  is  neither  necessary  nor  wise  to  serve  a 
bitch  as  soon  as  she  is  willing  to  accept  service; 
one  week  from  the  first  appearance  of  discharge 
is  the  proper  time  and  two  services  forty-eight 
hours  apart  are  as  good  as  half  a  dozen.  The 
period  of  actual  heat  is  about  ten  days,  though 
this  is  often  exceeded  or  decreased  in  duration. 
There  is  little  truth  in  the  saying  of  nine  days 
coming  and  nine  days  going  out.  The  average 
length  of  service  is  fifteen  minutes,  and  the  dog 
should  be  removed  instantly,  never  being  left 
with  the  bitch  after  service. 

If  the  bitch  forms  a  messalliance,  a  prompt 
injection  of  weak  solution  of  bichloride  of  mer- 
cury will  have  the  desired  effect.  Never  take 
a  bitch's  word  for  it  that  her  heat  has  passed, 
but  keep  her  close  for  several  days  after  she 
has  denied  the  soft  impeachement.  Occasion- 
ally a  bitch,  though  fully  in  heat,  refuses  to  ac- 
cept service.  In  a  case  of  this  kind  she  should 
be  muzzled  and  forced  to  accept — only,  how- 
ever, in  positive  and  unmistakable  cases.  Ex- 
cessively fat  bitches  show  impaired  powers  of 
reproduction  and  frequently  fail  to  breed  or 
will  have  small  litters  with  sickly  pups. 

The  best  conformation  for  brood  bitches  is 


BREEDING  AND   RAISING   38 

one  with  wide  and  strong  loins  and  good 
length  of  flank.  Too  much  exercise  cannot  be 
given  during  this  period,  and  hunting  should 
be  kept  up  at  least  four  weeks  after  service. 
After  four  weeks,  regular  yard  and  road  exer- 
cise should  be  given,  though  care  should  be 
taken  in  exercising  to  prevent  colds.  From 
now  on  one  cannot  be  too  careful  in  adminis- 
tering strong  purgative  medicines  or  applying 
any  soaps,  washes,  or  strong  remedies  for 
mange  or  vermin.  The  period  of  gestation  is 
sixty-three  days  and  seldom  varies  except 
through  accident. 

It  is  safe  to  count  on  the  first  service,  if  per- 
formed in  the  latter  rather  than  the  first  period 
of  the  heat.  The  bitch  will  have  a  capricious 
appetite  at  this  time  and  should  be  well  sup- 
plied with  a  variety  of  food.  A  bitch  that  is 
known  to  be  rough  and  careless  toward  her 
pups  should  not  be  given  a  whelping  box.  A 
small  house  with  a  dry  dirt  floor  is  best.  In 
this  hollow  out  a  nest  several  days  in  advance, 
that  she  may  become  accustomed  to  it.  The 
circular  form  of  nest  will  prevent  her  lying  or 
stepping  upon  the  pups,  as  they  will  always 
gravitate  toward  the  center.  The  antiseptic 
qualities  of  the  dry  earth  are  too  well  known 
to  need  comment. 

The  bitch's  disposition  changes  very  mate- 


34.  THE  FOXHOUND 

rially  as  parturition  approaches,  and  the  quiet- 
est, gentlest  of  them  may  become  restless,  nerv- 
ous, and  irritable.  After  seeing  that  each 
puppy  has  suckled  once,  do  not  intrude  upon 
her.  Let  her  alone;  she  understands  the  ne- 
cessities of  the  situation  much  better  than  you. 
Feed  soft  foods  for  a  few  days,  but  do  not 
worry  about  the  amount  she  eats;  nature  has 
attended  to  that,  but  always  have  plenty  of 
cool,  clean  water  within  easy  reach.  Later  on 
the  enormous  drain  on  her  vitality  can  be  met 
with  generous  and  tempting  food.  If  a  pup 
should  die,  or  be  crushed,  remove  the  body  at 
the  first  opportunity,  as  the  inclination  and  in- 
stinct to  eat  it  may  lead  to  eating  of  all.  This 
also  frequently  happens  when  they  are  moved 
from  place  to  place  or  disturbed  or  interfered 
with. 

A  bitch  in  good  condition,  getting  plenty  of 
food  and  exercise,  can  raise  eight  puppies, 
though  I  had  a  bitch  raise  fifteen  of  her  own 
whelping.  If  a  foster  mother  is  considered 
desirable,  make  the  change  gradually,  one  or 
two  at  a  time,  removing  the  foster  mother's 
pups  every  time  you  add  a  strange  one  and  rub 
some  of  the  foster  mother's  milk  over  added 
pups.  Their  eyes  will  open  in  nine  days,  and 
when  they  are  three  or  four  weeks  old  they 


BREEDING  AND   RAISING   35 

will  lap  milk  or  soup.  The  former  should  al- 
ways be  boiled,  thinned  with  water,  and  a  little 
sugar  added.  Later  bread  crumbs  and  well- 
boiled  meat  may  also  be  added.  They  should 
be  given  a  simple  remedy  for  worms  (see  rem- 
edy in  chapter  on  Diseases  and  Remedies)  at 
five  or  six  weeks  of  age.  Pups,  no  matter  how 
they  are  raised,  are  troubled  with  these  pests 
of  puppyhood. 

Puppies  kept  clean  and  dry  more  frequently 
escape  the  terrible  ravages  of  distemper  than 
others.  Feed  them  three  or  four  times  a  day 
until  six  months  of  age,  then  once  daily,  prefer- 
ably at  night,  will  suffice.  Avoid  giving  medi- 
cine as  much  as  possible.  More  hounds  die 
from  improper  and  excessive  uses  of  medicines 
than  from  want  of  it.  Give  them  access  to 
grassland  and  they  will  find  their  own  remedies. 

Never  attempt  to  raise  hound  pups  in  a  ken- 
nel ;  a  kennel-raised  pup  is  absolutely  worthless; 
Adopt  the  English  custom  of  farming  them  out, 
or,  as  they  express  it,  put  them  "  out  to  walk." 
Unless  the  person  taking  them  has  had  experi- 
ence in  raising  pups,  it  is  safest  to  give  them 
written  instructions,  especally  as  to  feed,  ver- 
min, worms,  and  distemper. 


TRAINING  AND  HUNTING 


CHAPTER   III 

TRAINING  AND  HUNTING 

THE  sport  of  hunting  wild  animals  on 
their  native  heath,  whether  with  hound 
or  gun,  is  the  natural  recreation  of  man. 
Love  of  hunting  in  its  different  phases  is  one 
of  the  strongest  characteristics  of  the  human 
race,  the  principles  and  methods  of  which  were 
instilled  into  our  remote  ancestors  and  rightly 
inherited  by  us;  and  he  who  has  once  tasted  the 
sweets  of  foxhunting  is  its  devotee  for  life. 
When  the  system  has  once  absorbed  the  love 
of  the  chase  it  never  can  be  eradicated. 

In  this  country,  since  the  earliest  days  of 
colonization,  the  sport  of  foxhunting  has 
thrived  with  unflagging,  in  fact  increasing, 
enthusiasm.  Our  early  ancestors,  especially  in 
Maryland,  Virginia,  and  Kentucky,  were  dev- 
otees of  the  sport,  and  every  country  gentle- 
man owned  his  pack  of  hounds  and  stable  of 
Jiorses;  but  the  first  organized  hunt  club  on  the 


40  THE  FOXHOUND 

order  of  an  English  hunt  was  in  1877,  when 
ten  couples  of  hounds  were  imported  and  drag 
runs  were  made  on  Long  Island.  They  afford- 
ed probably  more  amusement  to  outsiders  than 
to  the  participants,  who  were  caricatured  and 
held  up  to  ridicule  by  the  press.  However,  this 
sport  found  favor  in  the  eyes  and  hearts  of  the 
riders  of  the  East,  and  soon  drag  hunts  were 
had  near  many  of  the  Eastern  cities.  Thus  a 
desire  for  cross-country  riding  was  created 
which  has  developed  into  successful  hunt  clubs 
in  the  East. 

It  has  never  been  popular  in  any  other  sec- 
tion of  the  country,  and  absolutely  unknown  in 
the  South.  A  Southern  hunter  would  as  soon 
think  of  gratifying  his  sporting  ambition  by 
tossing  up  a  dead  bird  bought  in  the  market 
and  shooting  at  it  as  by  running  a  drag,  and 
the  devotee  of  drag-hunting  considers  many  of 
the  foxhunting  customs  of  the  South  and  West 
equally  absurd  and  amusing. 

Hunting  in  America  requires  an  altogether 
different  hound  from  those  used  in  England, 
conditions  being  very  dissimilar.  Hounds  re- 
quire superior  hunting  ability,  wide  ranging, 
greater  perseverance  and  patience,  and  above 
all  a  much  better  nose  to  enable  them  to  take 
an  old  and  cold  track  probably  made  the  day 


TRAINING  AND   HUNTING  41 

before  and  work  it  out  inch  by  inch  for  six  or 
eight  hours  if  necessary.  They  get  absolutely 
no  assistance  from  the  hunter  and  have  no  one 
to  rely  upon  but  themselves.  I  have  known 
instances  where  a  single  hound  would  slip  away 
from  home,  travel  eight  or  ten  miles  to  where 
he  had  previously  run  a  fox,  find  an  old  trail, 
and  work  it  diligently  for  fifteen  or  twenty 
hours. 

No  animal  is  called  upon  to  perform  harder 
feats  than  is  the  Foxhound,  and  none  excel  or 
equal  them  in  ability  and  willingness  to  per- 
form them.  As  proficiency  in  other  arts  is 
attained  only  by  close  application  and  constant 
practice,  so  the  art,  for  surely  it  is  an  art,  of 
breaking  and  training  a  Foxhound  requires  not 
only  these  but  a  large  fund  of  love  and  a  mu- 
tual bond  of  sympathy  and  understanding  be- 
tween man  and  hound. 

The  trainer  having  the  requisite  keenness 
and  perseverance,  combined  with  kindness  and 
quick  observance  of  the  nature  and  disposition 
of  hounds,  can  produce  surprising  results. 
Unfortunately  few  trainers  or  hunters  possess 
sufficient  knowledge  of  hound  characteristics  or 
the  unlimited  stock  of  patience  necessary  to  per- 
fect a  'hound  to  the  proper  degree  of  efficiency. 
A  successful  hunter  or  trainer  should  have  in- 


42  THE  FOXHOUND 

tuitive  knowledge  bordering  on  instinct  of  the 
ways  and  habits  of  the  fox  and  a  well-defined 
idea,  based  upon  practical  experience,  as  to  just 
what  a  fox  is  apt  to  do  under  various  circum- 
stances over  which  he  (the  fox)  has  no  control. 
A  fair  knowledge  of  the  country  to  be  hunted 
is  of  great  service,  especially  in  "  striking  off  a 
loss,"  or  "  making  casts,"  in  the  earlier 
"  checks  "  of  a  run. 

It  is  the  judicious  study  of  the  individual 
hound  that  distinguishes  the  successful  trainer, 
and  his  judgment  must  be  called  into  requisi- 
tion in  training  different  hounds,  as  no  iron- 
clad rules  can  be  laid  down.  In  limited  space 
it  is  impossible  to  give  the  full  detail  neces- 
sary to  enable  a  novice  to  graduate  a  broken 
trained  hound.  Only  the  fundamental  princi- 
ples can  be  touched  upon.  In  fact,  many  in- 
stances arise  through  idiosyncracies  of  individ- 
ual hounds  where  no  general  rules  can  apply. 
Common  sense  must  be  appealed  to  and  spe- 
cific treatment  administered. 

In  America  we  have  no  professional  trainer, 
every  man  is  a  law  to  himself,  and  few  Ameri- 
can hounds  receive  any  except  self-training. 
The  knowledge  they  obtain  is  by  absorption 
from  contact  with  other  hounds.  Their  nat- 
ural instinct  prompts  them  to  hunt  and  trail; 


TRAINING  AND   HUNTING  43 

many  bad  habits  are  contracted  in  this  crude 
method  that,  once  instilled  in  the  system,  are 
almost  impossible  to  eradicate  and  are  fre- 
quently transmitted  to  their  progeny.  The 
hound  is  gregarious  by  nature,  preferring  to 
hunt  in  packs,  but  the  undeviating  perseverance 
and  high  courage  of  the  American  hound 
makes  it  easier  to  train  him  to  hunt  alone  than 
is  possible  with  the  English  hound,  whose  train- 
ing is  generally  in  a  pack.  Pack  training,  how- 
ever, has  a  tendency  to  destroy  the  self-reliance 
and  independence  so  natural  to  the  American 
hound,  which  hunts  independently  of  hound  or 
man  and  seldom  expects  or  receives  assistance 
from  either. 

Different  methods  and  conditions  in  hunting 
are  responsible  for  the  widely  divergent  dif- 
ference in  hounds  in  the  field,  though  practi- 
cally of  the  same  strain  and  breeding.  Hounds 
for  use  in  the  North  and  in  New  England, 
where  a  single  hound  is  hunted,  require  a  far 
more  systematic  training  and  education  than 
the  pack  hound  of  the  South.  The  dog  should 
be  taught  by  means  of  the  check  cord  to  fol- 
low his  master  "  at  heel,"  become  accustomed 
voice,  to  jump  in  and  out  of  a  vehicle  at  corn- 
to  strange  sights,  and  to  come  when  called  by 
mand,  and  to  ride  quietly  therein.  He  should 


44  THE  FOXHOUND 

be  broken  to  gun,  chain,  and  collar,  and  above 
all  to  know  his  master's  horn.  Familiarity 
should  not  be  countenanced,  and  any  desire  on 
his  part  to  jump  upon  or  place  his  front  feet 
upon  his  master  should  be  checked  by  gently 
mashing  his  hind  foot  by  stepping  upon  it 
when  he  rears. 

The  native  New  England  hound,  doubtless 
through  ancestral  influence,  is  of  a  more  pliable 
nature  and  better  adapted  to  the  style  of  hunt- 
ing used  in  that  section  than  the  Southern 
hound,  which  has  inherited  the  pack  instinct  for 
many  generations.  Yet  the  Southern  hound, 
owing  to  his  extreme  speed  and  brilliancy  in 
driving  his  quarry,  is  rapidly  replacing  the  na- 
tive. English  hounds  are  undoubtedly  more 
susceptible  to  training  and  handling,  and  in 
England  much  attention  is  paid  to  manners 
and  good  behavior  at  walk,  in  the  kennels,  and 
in  the  field.  The  thing  taught  is  obedience 
and  respect  to  the  master;  such  a  thing  as  an 
unruly  or  riotous  pack  is  almost  unknown. 

Unfortunately  in  America  the  very  opposite 
is  true,  a  well-mannered,  obedient  hound  being 
a  rare  exception.  The  fact  that  comparatively 
few  packs  of  American  hounds  are  kept  ken- 
neled and  the  absence  of  "  whippers-in  "  are 
in  a  measure  responsible  for  this  unfortunate 


TRAINING   AND   HUNTING  45 

condition,  while  the  naturally  free  and  inde- 
pendent nature  of  the  American  hound  renders 
his  education  along  this  line  more  difficult  than 
with  the  English. 

There  is  little  or  no  excuse  for  the  harum- 
scarum  manner  in  which  hounds  are  generally 
fed,  handled,  and  taken  to  and  from  the  hunt- 
ing ground.  With  the  use  of  "  couples  "  and 
an  energetic  "  whipper-in "  desirable  results 
will  soon  be  apparent,  especially  if  hounds  are 
roaded  and  packed  when  not  actually  en  route 
to  and  from  the  hunting  ground.  Good  man- 
ners, when  once  acquired,  should  not  be  al- 
lowed to  grow  lax.  By  a  display  of  resolu- 
tion an  unruly  hound  is  readily  subdued,  and 
if  he  is  mastered  at  the  beginning  of  his  train- 
ing is  usually  submissive  afterward.  If  taken 
in  time  the  desire  to  resist  can  be  more  easily 
overcome  than  the  actual  resistance  can  be  con- 
quered later  on. 

Hounds,  if  properly  treated,  are  capable  of 
great  affection.  Their  confidence  should  never 
be  abused.  The  whip  is  the  most  dangerous 
implement  in  most  hands,  especially  in  those  of 
the  trainer  whose  temper  is  easily  ruffled  at 
some  offense  or  breach  of  discipline  on  the 
part  of  the  hound.  Firmness  and  considera- 
tion appeal  more  to  the  sympathetic  nature  of 


46  THE  FOXHOUND 

the  hound  than  strength  and  cruelty.  The 
whip  should  be  used  sparingly  with  highly  nerv- 
ous or  excitable  hounds  that  need  restraint  or 
correction.  The  voice,  if  properly  modulated, 
will  generally  have  the  desired  effect.  Hounds 
will  not  readily  forgive  or  forget  an  unde- 
served blow,  and  when  it  is  too  freely  bestowed 
they  soon  learn  to  consider  man  an  agent  of 
torture  rather  than  a  friend. 

Never  make  a  companion  or  pet  of  a  hound, 
and  never  offer  to  pet  or  caress  one  in  the  field. 
This  places  them  on  a  familiar  footing  and 
"  familiarity  breeds  contempt."  The  pamper- 
ing and  petting  which  many  hounds  are  sub- 
jected to  by  overindulgent  owners  are  respon- 
sible for  the  ruin  of  many  a  promising  hound. 
If  not  a  breeder,  in  selecting  hounds  attention 
must  be  paid  to  qualities  and  characteristics  of 
antecedents,  as  ancestral  influence  is  certain  to 
crop  out  in  later  generations.  While  inherited 
instinct  may  be  more  or  less  latent,  it  is  always 
present,  and  it  is  simply  a  question  of  develop- 
ment by  proper  handling  and  training.  A 
hound  with  bad  qualities  is  more  apt  to  per- 
petuate them  in  his  progeny  than  he  is  to  throw- 
back to  better  qualities  which  were  possessed 
by  his  blue-blooded  ancestors. 

Hunting  and  training  qualities  are  usually 


TRAINING  AND   HUNTING  47 

inherited  from  the  dam,  while  speed,  endur- 
ance and  conformation  are  transmitted  from 
the  sire.  Even  a  superficial  knowledge  of  the 
subject  indicates  that  speed  and  hunting  instinct 
are  among  the  greater  qualities  a  hound  should 
possess  and  they  are  much  sought  after.  But 
a  hound  lacking  vital  force,  staunchness,  and 
endurance  can  never  excel.  During  the  kinder- 
garten course  as  far  as  possible  pups  should  be 
trained  under  the  most  favorable  hunting  con- 
ditions, and  the  work  made  as  easy  and  light 
as  possible.  Later  on  harder  problems  may 
be  submitted  for  their  solution.  An  ideal  hunt- 
ing day  is  when  the  ground  is  damp  and  moist 
(not  frozen)  with  a  heavy  atmosphere,  a 
cloudy  sky,  and  light  southern  breeze. 

At  six  months  of  age  the  average  hound's 
brain  is  sufficiently  developed  to  enable  him  to 
grasp  the  simpler  rudiments  of  training  and 
to  realize  that  he  has  a  mission  in  life  other 
than  the  theft  of  everything  portable  he  en- 
counters. At  this  age  his  manners  should  re- 
ceive proper  attention.  He  should  be  made 
acquainted  with  the  sights  and  sounds  of  the 
road,  and  no  better  method  can  be  advised 
than  to  couple  him  to  a  quiet,  staid,  dignified 
old  hound  and  road  them  through  the  country. 
As  soon  as  he  is  disposed  to  behave  himself 


48  THE  FOXHOUND 

he  should  be  uncoupled,  at  first  only  when  on 
the  way  home.  At  the  first  indication  of  lev- 
ity on  his  part  recouple  him  promptly,  giving 
him  to  understand  the  why  and  wherefore. 

Never  allow  hounds  to  visit  farmyards  un- 
punished. Disabuse  their  minds  of  the  idea 
that  they  must  make  the  acquaintance  of  every 
cur  of  high  or  low  degree  they  meet  on  the 
road.  The  first  lessons  in  actual  hunting 
should  commence  when  six  to  ten  months  of 
age,  according  to  physical  development.  If  at 
this  stage  a  careful  study  of  the  nature  and 
eccentricities  shows  faults  too  pronounced  and 
not  easily  corrected,  it  is  far  better  to  dispose 
of  the  hound  than  to  waste  time  on  him  with 
the  liability  of  others  contracting  the  same 
faults. 

It  is  a  very  common  as  well  as  pernicious 
custom  of  the  tyro  to  allow  hound  puppies  to 
hunt  or  run  rabbits.  This  is  a  serious  mistake. 
Why  allow  them  to  acquire  a  habit  that  will 
take  weeks  and  months  to  break  them  of  later? 
It  is  only  fair  to  say  that  ninety  per  cent,  of 
the  hounds  that  are  first  entered  to  rabbit  can 
never  be  made  absolutely  rabbit  proof.  The 
best  plan  is  to  enter  them  to  fox  cubs.  If  a 
den  is  not  conveniently  near  and  old  foxes  are 
scarce,  a  captive  fox  taught  to  lead  may  be 


TRAINING  AND   HUNTING  49 

utilized  in  the  preliminary  lessons,  at  least  until 
they  can  learn  the  intoxicating  delight  a  well- 
bred  hound  experiences  in  scenting  a  fox. 

Great  care  should  be  exercised  in  using  a 
captive  fox  to  keep  it  far  enough  away  from 
the  pups  so  they  may  never  see  or  smell  it  until 
they  run  across  the  trail  laid  for  them.  In 
other  words,  a  captive  fox  should  never  be 
kept  anywhere  in  the  vicinity  of  the  kennels. 
It  is  better  to  hunt  puppies  where  a  gray  rather 
than  a  red  fox  "  uses."  Should  they  strike  an 
old  red  it  will  not  only  take  the  heart  out  of 
them,  but  his  straightaway  tactics  will  take 
them  out  of  your  own  field  of  observation. 
The  gray  will  dodge,  twist,  and  make  short 
circles,  thus  enabling  you  to  note  the  perform- 
ances of  the  puppies  and  correct  their  faults. 

The  presence  of  an  older  and  better  hound 
teaches  the  younger  hounds  how  to  circle  for  a 
loss  and  checks  the  disposition  of  many  young 
hounds  to  back  track  when  a  loss  is  made.  A 
slow  hound  is  best  to  train  them  with  first,  but 
he  must  not  be  a  potterer  or  a  babbler.  After 
he  has  the  fox  up  and  the  pup  has  taken  hold 
of  the  line,  if  opportunity  presents  to  take  up 
the  old  hound  without  the  knowledge  of  the 
pup  do  so.  If  the  pup  makes  a  loss  or  quits 
for  any  cause  replace  the  old  hound,  to  assist 


50  THE  FOXHOUND 

him.  If  a  loss  is  made  when  hunting  alone,  do 
not  get  excited  and  try  to  rush  him  along. 
There  is  less  danger  of  becoming  a  potterer 
than  rioter.  Keep  quiet:  excitement  is  conta- 
gious. 

If  he  shows  no  disposition  to  "  circle  "  make 
the  cast  yourself  and  gently  coax  him  to  accom- 
pany you.  When  he  finally  strikes  the  line 
cheer  him  on.  Never  take  a  hound  by  the 
collar  or  lead  him  and  put  him  on  the  line;  get 
him  to  it  naturally  and  let  him  think  he  has 
"  struck  it  off."  No  matter  how  much  time  is 
lost,  let  him  work  out  his  own  salvation.  This 
habit  of  laying  on  the  line  has  proved  a  curse 
to  the  English  hounds. 

When  a  distant  hound  opens  and  the  pup 
fails  to  "hark"  to  him,  attract  his  attention 
by  repeating  the  word  "  hark  "  sharply,  then 
start  rapidly  toward  the  sound,  urging  him  to 
"  go  to  him,"  stop,  cry  "  hark,"  and  repeat 
this,  getting  nearer  all  the  time  until  the  pup 
"  goes  in."  Should  he  be  "  thrown  out,"  re- 
peat this  later,  as  the  fox  is  certain  to  circle 
and  return  within  hearing  distance.  When 
possible  alternate  hunting  alone  and  with  pack. 
If  hunted  always  with  a  pack,  especially  of  his 
superiors,  the  young  dog  will  soon  acquire  a 
habit  of  waiting  or  holding  back  until  others 


TRAINING  AND   HUNTING  51 

make  a  strike  and  his  usefulness  will  be  much 
impaired.  When  alone  he  soon  develops  con- 
fidence in  his  own  ability  that  will  later  stand 
him  in  good  stead. 

Hunting  with  inferior  hounds  teaches  him 
to  go  ahead,  forge  for  the  front,  pick  up  a 
loss,  and  to  depend  upon  his  own  efforts.  Hunt- 
ing with  better  hounds  teaches  him  through  ob- 
servation how  to  accomplish  these  ends  with 
accuracy  and  more  ease  to  himself.  If  covert 
is  close,  swampy,  infested  with  briars,  or  im- 
penetrable, never  hunt  him  alone,  but  with  a 
slow,  painstaking  older  hound  which  will  in- 
duce him  to  enter  and  remain  in  the  face  of 
adverse  conditions;  if  inclined  to  babble  or  run 
riot,  he  should  be  given  five  or  six  miles  of 
brisk  road  work  behind  a  horse  or  vehicle  be- 
fore throwing  him  in.  This  will  take  off  the 
keen  edge  and  subdue  his  spirits  enough  to  get 
him  down  to  business.  One  thus  inclined 
should  never  be  broken  with  a  noisy  hound, 
but  a  steady,  reliable  one,  that  knows  just 
when  to  give  tongue  and  how  much  of  it. 

Punishment  for  babbling  and  running  riot 
should  be  administered  promptly  and  deci- 
sively. Spare  your  voice  with  young  hounds. 
Remember  silence  is  a  necessary  qualification 
of  a  successful  trainer  and  that  hounds  soon 


52  THE  FOXHOUND 

become  noisy  babblers  like  their  masters.  Back 
tracking  is  a  grievous  fault,  one  of  the  hardest 
to  overcome  as  well  as  one  of  the  easiest  to 
acquire.  A  hound  showing  a  disposition  to 
back  track  should  as  far  as  possible  be  given 
opportunities  to  run  hot,  fresh  trails,  even  if 
the  aid  of  a  captive  fox  is  necessary.  It  is 
far  easier  to  distinguish  the  right  way  of  the 
track  when  fresh  than  when  cold.  Great  care 
should  be  exercised  in  punishing  a  hound  for 
back  tracking.  He  thinks  he  is  right  and  can- 
not understand  the  punishment.  It  is  far  bet- 
ter to  let  him  continue  on  a  track  until  it 
"  peters  out,"  for  then  he  realizes  that  some- 
thing is  wrong,  especially  if  in  his  next  run  he 
gets  near  enough  to  his  fox  to  find  the  scent 
increasing. 

Training  with  a  drag  is  very  apt  to  make 
back  trackers  of  any  hound.  If  in  preliminary 
lessons  you  are  not  fortunate  enough  "  to 
hole "  a  wild  fox,  the  captive  fox  should  be 
brought  into  play,  a  half  or  three-quarter  mile 
trail  laid  by  leading,  and  the  fox  securely  holed 
at  the  end.  Let  the  hound  run  the  trail  to  the 
hole  alone;  as  long  as  he  shows  a  disposition 
to  stay  and  bay  do  not  put  in  an  appearance, 
but  keep  in  viewing  distance.  At  the  first  indi- 
cation of  leaving,  come  forward  and  make 


TRAINING   AND   HUNTING  53 

exaggerate  defforts  to  dislodge  the  fox,  urging 
the  hound  to  bay  and  get  him  out.  Drop  back 
out  of  sight  gradually  and  repeat  your  actions 
several  times.  Finally  dig  him  out,  and  if 
foxes  are  plentiful  allow  him  to  "break"  the 
fox,  this  being  a  good  time  to  blood  the  hound. 

If  when  hounds  are  thrown  "  in  cover "  a 
c<  blank  draw  "  results,  do  not  take  the  hounds 
up,  but  let  them  hunt  along  to  the  next  cover. 
Move  slowly,  indicating  the  direction  by  a  sin- 
gle short  blast  on  your  horn  every  few  hundred 
yards  to  enable  the  hounds  to  keep  in  touch 
with  you.  Moving  rapidly  has  a  tendency  to 
make  "  readers  "  of  otherwise  good  hounds. 
Should  a  young  hound  "  come  in  "  while  others 
are  hunting,  trailing,  or  driving,  and  you  can- 
not induce  him  to  go  to  them,  do  not  allow  him 
to  lie  around  or  follow  you,  (but  send  him 
immediately  to  the  kennel;  otherwise  he  will 
soon  become  a  confirmed  loafer,  in  which  case 
he  should  be  presented  with  an  ounce  of  lead. 

The  practiced  ear  will  readily  distinguish  a 
hound's  tongue  when  out  of  sight.  When  you 
hear  a  hound  "  open  "  do  not  put  spurs  to  your 
horse  to  get  to  him  unless  you  recognize  his 
tongue  and  know  him  well;  he  may  fool  you. 
If  other  hounds  are  in  sight,  watch  them 
closely.  They  will  "  head  up  "  at  the  sound 


54  THE  FOXHOUND 

and  listen  intently,  and  if  they  are  not  thor- 
oughly satisfied  will  resume  their  own  hunting. 
This  may  be  repeated  several  times.  Then 
without  any  apparent  difference  in  tone  the 
hounds  "  will  hark  to  it "  and  with  bristles  up 
and  tail  lashing  take  high  fences  in  their  eager- 
ness to  "  get  in."  They  know  the  characters 
of  their  hound  friends  better  than  you  do  and 
can  tell  when  they  are  bluffing  or  in  earnest. 

Never  force  or  hurry  hounds  in  puzzling  out 
a  cold  trail.  This  is  one  of  the  most  fruitful 
means  of  spoiling  sport,  as  well  as  hounds.  If 
you  feel  restless  and  impatient,  dismount  and 
sit  on  a  fence  or  stump.  If  you  and  your 
horse  show  impatience  it  will  surely  be  com- 
municated to  the  hounds  and  a  check  will  soon 
develop  in  a  loss.  Never  go  ahead  of  the 
hounds;  remember,  no  matter  how  great  the 
temptation  is  to  be  in  front,  you  cannot  catch 
the  fox  yourself,  but  you  can,  and  probably 
will,  not  only  spoil  the  day's  sport  but  you  also 
run  the  risk  of  spoiling  the  hound  by  such 
tactics. 

When  "  casting "  never  offer  to  assist  as 
long  as  the  hounds  are  diligently  trying  to 
"  strike  off."  The  less  they  are  interfered  with 
the  better;  they  understand  finding  a  fox  better 
than  you  do.  Hounds  while  fresh  are  very  ex- 


TRAINING  AND   HUNTING  55 

citable  and  unless  you  overrun  the  line  at  the 
first  turn  and  make  a  loss  do  not  keep  too  close 
to  them  when  driving.  This  is  responsible  for 
spoiling  more  good  runs  than  all  the  bad  soil, 
high  wind,  and  climatic  conditions  combined. 
In  hunting  the  hunter  should  stay  with  the 
hounds  and  not  allow  the  hounds  to  stay  with 
him.  They  are  supposed  to  do  the  hunting  and 
should  not  learn  to  rely  upon  the  hunter  to 
select  likely  places  to  get  up  the  fox  or  strike 
a  trail.  ^When  hounds  are  "  thrown  in  "  stay 
perfectly  quiet  and  keep  your  horse  so. 
Hounds  are  easily  rattled  at  this  stage,  espe- 
cially if  they  have  been  kenneled  for  several 
days,  and  too  much  enthusiasm  on  your  part 
may  cause  them  to  riot.  Frequently,  owing  to 
the  character  of  the  country  in  wooded  districts, 
it  is  impossible  to  keep  the  hounds  within  sight 
or  hearing;  then  the  craft  of  the  hunter  or 
trainer  with  an  accurate  knowledge  of  the 
habits  of  the  game  comes  into  play.  If  sheep 
or  cattle  are  in  sight  he  can  tell  at  a  glance  if 
they  passed  in  their  vicinity,  can  even  tell  the 
very  direction  taken.  Every  flock  of  fowls, 
farm  dog,  or  cur  of  low  degree  is  an  indicator. 
If  there  is  a  band  of  horses  he  can  tell  whether 
the  hounds  were  close  or  far  behind  the  fox. 
If  there  is  a  crow  or  jaybird  in  the  neighbor- 


56  THE  FOXHOUND 

hood  he  can  locate  the  fox,  as  both  are  invet- 
erate enemies  of  the  fox  and  will  not  only 
"  peach  "  upon  him,  but  do  everything  in  their 
power  to  advise  the  world  at  large  of  the  fox's 
presence.  All  of  these  signs  are  Greek  to  the 
novice  and  can  only  be  learned  by  constant 
observation. 

While  it  is  best  to  train  in  daytime,  as  the 
work  of  the  hound  can  be  noted  to  better  ad- 
vantage, good  results  are  obtained  by  night 
hunting,  especially  in  the  South,  where  scenting 
conditions  are  better  at  night  and  the  fox  is 
more  easily  found,  runs  longer,  and  keeps  a 
more  regular  course.  The  trainer  should  fa- 
miliarize himself  with  the  tongue  or  voice  of 
each  hound.  An  experienced  hunter  can  tell 
the  feelings  swaying  a  hound  as  each  note  re- 
flected in  the  music  of  the  mouth  represents  a 
particular  emotion,  distinctly  denoting  eager- 
ness, anxiety,  uncertainty,  joy,  distress,  or  any 
other  canine  feeling. 

The  number  of  times  a  week  they  should  be 
hunted  at  this  stage  of  the. game  depends  on 
how  they  stand  up  to  the  work.  As  much  care 
should  be  taken  to  see  they  do  not  grow  stale 
or  sour  from  overwork  as  that  they  do  not 
become  soft  and  indolent  from  lack  of  work. 
Their  feet  should  be  examined  on  the  start  from 


TRAINING  AND   HUNTING  57 

the  kennel,  also  on  the  return  to  it.  Place  the 
back  of  the  hand  to  the  hound's  nose;  if  it  is 
cold  and  moist,  he  is  all  right.  If  it  is  warm 
and  dry  he  should  not  be  hunted,  but  given  a 
dose  of  castor  oil  and  light  road  exercise.  The 
nose  is  the  only  absolutely  correct  indicator  of 
condition  in  a  hound. 

A  bag  fox  can  be  liberated  occasionally  in 
blooding  young  hounds.  They  never  run  like 
a  wild  fox,  even  when  they  are  fresh  and  unin- 
jured; they  generally  go  "down  wind,"  and 
though  hounds  run  them  in  a  half-hearted  way, 
the  fox  seldom,  when  turned  down  under  fa- 
vorable conditions  for  trailing,  gets  his  "  ticket 
of  leave."  With  twenty  minutes'  license, 
hounds  should  kill  in  about  the  same  amount 
of  time  after  being  laid  on  the  line.  Never 
attempt  to  call  or  collect  your  hounds  by  a  false 
call  to  game.  You  may  fool  them  a  few  times, 
but  they  will  soon  find  you  out  and  you  will 
realize  that  you  have  cried  wolf  once  too  often. 

All  hounds  should  be  taught  to  swim,  but  do 
not  do  it  by  throwing  them  into  the  water. 
When  the  water  is  warm  enough  not  to  chill, 
take  them  out  in  a  boat  a  short  distance  from 
the  shore,  place  them  gently  in  the  water,  and 
pull  ashore  fast  enough  to  prevent  efforts  to 
get  into  the  boat.  It  is  seldom  that  more  than 


58  THE  FOXHOUND 

a  couple  of  lessons  are  necessary  to  make  them 
feel  at  home  in  the  water. 

The  homing  instinct  is  possessed  in  greater 
or  less  degree  by  all  hounds  and  should  be  cul- 
tivated to  the  utmost.  This  should  not  be  done 
by  leaving  them  in  the  woods  or  hunting  ground 
to  find  their  way  home  alone.  Make  short 
excursions  from  the  home  and  have  them  con- 
fined for  an  hour  after  your  departure.  Grad- 
ually increase  the  distance  as  well  as  the  time 
of  confinement.  Whenever  a  hound  returns 
voluntarily  to  the  kennels  he  should  be  given 
a  morsel  to  eat,  no  matter  what  hour  or  how 
near  feeding  time. 

If  you  leave  a  hound  while  out  hunting,  he 
soon  loses  confidence  in  you  and  looks  upon 
you  as  a  deserter.  When  you  are  ready  to  re- 
turn call  him  with  your  ^horn,  the  tone  of 
which  you  should  familiarize  him  with  in  the 
kennels.  It  is  remarkable  how  readily  they 
learn  the  tone  of  their  master's  horn  and  never 
forget  or  confuse  it  with  another.  Use  the 
cow  horn  in  preference  to  the  brass  instrument. 
The  latter  has  no  individuality  and  is  very  hard 
for  a  hound  to  distinguish.  There  is  a  peculiar 
charm,  a  mysterious  sweetness  about  the  tone 
of  a  good,  well-blown  cow  horn  that  no  musical 
instrument  possesses.  Its  melody  fills  the  heart 


TRAINING   AND   HUNTING  59 

of  the  hunter  and  quickens  his  blood  as  do  the 
drum  and  bugle  that  of  a  soldier. 

One  of  the  most  important  lessons  to  be 
taught  is  that  domestic  animals  are  not  legiti- 
mate quarry.  The  worst  habit  a  hound  can 
acquire  is  sheep  killing;  once  acquired,  no 
earthly  effort  can  break  him  of  it.  Young 
hounds  should  be  coupled  and  frequently  taken 
through  sheep  pastures.  Should  one  show  a 
disposition  to  run  or  attack  a  sheep,  ride  him 
down,  whip  him  thoroughly,  and  give  him  the 
impression  that  you  intend  to  kill  him  then  and 
there.  Should  he  repeat  the  offense,  tie  him 
with  a  short  rope  to  a  vicious  old  ram  who 
will  take  pleasure  in  cracking  a  few  ribs  for 
him,  and  he  will  forevermore  lose  his  appetite 
for  mutton. 

As  a  precaution  against  hounds  running 
deer,  a  young  goat  should  be  kept  in  and  about 
the  kennels.  To  prevent  gun  shyness  go  to  the 
kennels  at  feeding  time  and  while  the  hounds 
are  eating,  fire  a  few  shots  from  a  small 
rifle.  Should  any  of  them  show  any  evidence 
of  fright  or  alarm  speak  to  and  pet  them. 
The  next  day  use  the  twenty-two  cartridges, 
then  a  revolver  and  gradually  lead  up  to  a 
shotgun.  After  firing  lay  the  gun  on  the 
ground  for  the  dogs  to  inspect  at  their  leisure. 


60  THE  FOXHOUND 

Some  hounds  have  a  predilection  for  running 
a  dog  track.  This  is  almost  as  bad  as  the 
"  mutton  habit "  and  calls  for  equally  prompt, 
heroic,  and  energetic  treatment  along  the  same 
lines. 

Between  hunting  seasons  hounds  should  have 
sufficient  active  and  regular  work  to  keep  them 
in  discipline,  muscles  hardened,  flesh  down,  and 
pads  well  indurated.  They  will  thus  be  ready 
to  resume  their  training  on  the  opening  of  their 
second  season. 


FEEDING 


CHAPTER  IV 

FEEDING 

THE  subject  of  feeding  is  a  matter  of 
the  greatest  importance,  as  upon  proper 
feed  depends  the  health,  spirits,  general 
appearance  and  capacity  for  work.  There  is 
no  detail  of  kennel  management  so  imperfectly 
understood  as  feeding,  as  is  abundantly  shown 
by  the  lack  of  knowledge  upon  the  part  of 
those  taking  upon  themselves  this  responsibil- 
ity and  the  resultant  ailments  directly  attribut- 
able to  injudicious  feeding. 

The  general  rules  to  be  observed  are  regu- 
larity in  time  of  feeding,  moderation  in  the 
quantity,  and  variety  in  the  description  of  it. 

Regularity  in  feeding  is  the  most  important 
of  these,  as  nothing  tends  more  quickly  to  dis- 
turb the  digestive  organs  of  the  dog  than  a 
long  fast  followed  by  a  heavy  meal  given  to 
make  up  the  deficiency. 

There  is  much  difference  of  opinion  as  to 
whether  hounds  should  be  fed  once  or  twice  a 
63 


64  THE  FOXHOUND 

day.  Some  claim  that  the  health  and  strength 
of  the  dog  will  be  impaired  by  being  allowed 
to  go  as  long  as  twenty-four  hours  without 
food.  This  may  be  the  case  with  some  breeds, 
but  hounds  fed  judiciously  once  a  day  can  be 
kept  in  perfect  health  and  spirits,  provided  they 
are  not  allowed  to  gulp  it  down  and  to  over- 
load their  stomachs.  This  can  be  arranged 
by  using  long,  narrow  V-shaped  troughs  made 
from  i"x6"  hard  wood  6  feet  long  closed  at 
both  ends. 

Troughs  should  be  stood  on  end  exposed  to 
the  sun  after  feeding.  If  left  upon  the  ground 
it  is  a  great  temptation  for  a  hound  to  urinate 
on  them  and  when  once  done  every  hound  will 
think  it  his  bounden  duty  to  follow  suit. 

Dogs  in  their  natural  or  wild  state,  like 
wolves,  whose  food  depends  largely  upon  acci- 
dent are  fortified  by  nature  with  powers  of 
resisting  hunger  for  long  periods.  Of  the 
'two  evils,  over-  or  under-feeding,  the  former 
is  by  far  the  greater  evil. 

The  quantity  of  food,  of  course,  depends 
entirely  upon  the  size  of  the  hound.  While 
no  general  rule  can  be  laid  down,  it  is  safe  to 
calculate  an  ounce  of  food  for  every  pound 
weight  of  the  hound.  Should  a  healthy  hound 
under  ordinary  exercise  grow  thin  on  this  ra- 


FEEDING  65 

tion  it  is  fair  to  presume  he  has  tape  or  com- 
mon worms,  and  should  be  treated  as  else- 
where provided. 

During  the  hunting  season  the  ration  can 
be  increased  in  proportion  to  the  work  done. 
A  hound  should  never  under  any  circumstances 
have  access  to  an  unlimited  quantity  of  food 
or  be  allowed  to  eat  until  he  ceases  to  be  hun- 
gry. The  minute  he  ceases  to  eat  eagerly  and 
begins  to  walk  about,  pick  or  choose  his  food, 
he  should  be  stopped. 

It  is  not  enough  to  see  that  they  are  sup- 
plied with  sufficient  food.  Like  human  beings 
they  vary  much  in  their  requirements,  and  it 
is  advisable  to  watch  them  closely  when  eating 
to  make  note  of  the  effect  of  different  quan- 
tities of  food  upon  their  systems  and  to  ob- 
serve their  changing  conditions.  Bear  in  mind 
the  age,  amount  of  exercise,  health,  season  of 
the  year,  and  their  individual  needs.  Always 
be  on  the  lookout  for  a  falling  or  flagging 
appetite,  as  that  is  the  earliest  and  surest 
symptom  of  disease.  When  the  kennelman 
has  familiarized  himself  with  their  individual 
appetites  and  manner  of  eating  he  should  sep- 
arate the  hounds  at  feeding  time,  the  timid, 
shrinking,  poor  feeders  in  one  pen  and  the 
hustling  bolters  in  another. 


66  THE  FOXHOUND 

The  dog  is  a  carnivorous  animal  and  re- 
quires more  or  less  of  a  meat  diet.  Some  so- 
called  authorities,  while  admitting  that  the  dog 
was  originally  carnivorous,  claim  that  from  his 
long  association  with  man  he  has  become  om- 
nivorous, and  that  meat  is  not  necessary  for 
perfect  development  and  health.  While  it  is 
true  that  dogs  are  practically  omnivorous  in 
the  present  day,  the  assertion  that  meat  is  en- 
tirely unnecessary  is  absurd. 

The  small  digestive  system  and  the  carniv- 
orous type  of  teeth  remain  and  are  entirely 
unsuited  to  farinaceous  and  starchy  foods. 
Mutton  and  beef  are  the  best  meats  for 
hounds,  but  owing  to  their  high  cost  are  pro- 
hibitive, especially  for  packs.  Horseflesh  can 
be  substituted  and  hounds  thrive  well  upon  it. 
Care  should  be  taken  to  see  that  the  horse  did 
not  die  from  glanders.  In  the  proper  feeding 
of  hounds  quality  is  of  much  more  importance 
than  quantity. 

The  principal  feed  of  hounds  in  this  coun- 
try is  necessarily  meals  and  should  be  pre- 
pared as  follows: 

One-third  cornmeal  (unbolted),  one-third 
shorts  from  wheat  flour,  and  one-third  hog 
cracklings  (refuse  after  lard  has  been  extract- 
ed) .  This  should  first  be  thoroughly  boiled  in 


FEEDING  67 

a  steam-jacketed  kettle,  then  baked  brown  in 
a  regular  brick  oven.  In  summer  it  is  best  to 
substitute  oats  for  cornmeal,  as  the  latter  is 
too  heating,  and  two  tablespoonsful  of  hypo- 
sulphite of  soda  should  be  added  for  every 
ten  couples.  It  should  be  baked  hard,  forcing 
them  to  chew  it  up,  thus  causing  a  flow  from 
the  salivary  glands  that  aids  digestion. 

The  feeding  of  soft,  sloppy,  starchy  foods, 
while  fattening,  leaves  the  hounds  soft  and 
flabby  and  produces  eczema  and  mange. 
Baked  hard  the  hound  cannot  bolt  it,  requir- 
ing crunching  and  better  mastication.  It  keeps 
the  teeth  clean  and  firm,  a  soft  food  fed 
hound  of  two  years  of  age  frequently  has  the 
mouth  of  a  four  or  five-year-old  hound. 

Dogs  fed  wholly  on  farinaceous  foods  take 
on  flesh  rapidly,  their  systems  become  weak- 
ened and  predisposed  to  disease  and  lack  the 
highest  development  of  courage,  endurance, 
and  gameness  so  greatly  desired  in  hounds. 

An  occasional  feed  of  vegetables  should  be 
given  as  the  meal  diet  is  very  heating  to  the 
blood  and  frequently  brings  on  attacks  of 
eczema  and  mange,  the  curse  of  all  hound 
packs.  It  is  doubtless  to  supply  deficiency  of 
vegetables  that  a  dog  is  seen  to  eat  grass. 

Bones,  described  as  a  dog's  tooth  brush,  are 


68  THE  FOXHOUND 

greatly  relished  by  them  and  are  of  great  serv- 
ice in  removing  tartar,  which  frequently  forms 
around  the  teeth  near  the  gums  and  either 
loosens  them  or  sets  up  an  irritation.  Bones 
should  never  be  given  to  dogs  when  their  stom- 
achs are  empty,  but  only  after  being  fed. 

Feeding  should  be  done  by  the  same  person 
every  day,  preferably  superintended  by  the 
man  who  hunts  them,  as  it  will  assist  him  in 
enforcing  discipline  and  obedience  in  the  field. 

When,  a  hound  refuses  to  eat  he  should  be 
thoroughly  examined.  If  nose  is  found  dry 
and  warm  his  temperature  should  be  taken. 
If  registering  above  101  in  the  rectum  (nor- 
mal) he  should  be  given  a  dose  of  castor  oil 
and  watched  carefully  for  a  day  or  two  for 
other  symptoms  of  sickness. 

It  is  of  the  utmost  importance  that  they  have 
a  pure  water  supply.  Many  intestinal  com- 
plaints are  produced  by  a  deficiency  in  this 
respect.  Drinking  vessels  should  be  so  ar- 
ranged that  they  cannot  be  soiled  by  the  dogs 
confined  in  the  kennel,  the  temptation  being 
great  to  use  them  as  urinals.  Vessels  should 
be  so  placed  as  not  to  be  exposed  to  the  rays 
of  the  sun  and  should  be  regularly  cleaned, 
and  moss  and  scum  removed  from  the  bottoms 
and  sides. 


FEEDING  69 

A  most  excellent  water  trough  can  be  made 
of  old  galvanized  range  boilers  by  cutting  a 
four  by  twelve  hole  along  the  side  in  the  center 
and  burying  it  upon  its  side,  allowing  the  hole 
to  be  flush  with  the  surface  of  the  ground. 
It  will  hold  about  thirty  gallons  and  the  earth 
will  keep  it  at  a  proper  temperature,  and  the 
small  opening  will  prevent  the  hounds  from 
soiling  the  water.  By  placing  half  the  boiler 
in  either  yard  beneath  the  division  fence  and 
making  an  opening  in  the  boiler  on  each  side 
of  the  fence  the  one  trough  will  serve  both 
yards. 

Where  practicable,  running  water  (unfortu- 
nately seldom  to  be  had)  should  be  provided, 
and  a  box  trough  arranged  for  them  to  bathe 
and  cool  off  in. 


KENNELS 


CHAPTER  V 

KENNELS 

THE  question  of  kennels  is  a  more  im- 
portant one  than  is  generally  supposed, 
and  the  venerable  saying  "  Anything  is 
good  enough  for  a  dog "  should  be  replaced 
by  "  Nothing  is  too  good  for  a  hound,"   as 
those  who  have  attempted  to  kennel  valuable 
hounds  in  unfitting  quarters  have  discovered 
to  their  cost. 

While  it  is  unnecessary  to  invest  large  sums 
of  money  in  kennels  to  insure  comfort  and 
health  for  the  occupants,  one  should  not  go  to 
the  other  extreme  of  overcrowding  hounds  in 
unfitting  quarters.  Cramped  quarters  and 
foul  surroundings  will  do  more  to  unfit  hounds 
for  field  work  than  can  be  counteracted  by  all 
the  skill  of  competent  trainers  and  handlers. 
Anyone  who  wishes  to  gain  a  reputation  as  a 
successful  breeder  or  hunter  of  hounds  should 
well  consider  the  matter  of  comfortably  ken- 
neling them, 


74  THE  FOXHOUND 

Supervise  your  kennels  yourself  if  you  want 
it  well  done;  if  you  want  it  half  done,  relegate 
it  to  the  best  possible  man  you  can  employ, 
irrespective  of  cost. 

The  following  plans  not  only  insure  an  in- 
expensive kennel,  but  also  one  best  adapted 
for  the  hound's  welfare,  both  in  and  out  of 
season.  If  it  is  desired,  one  can  substitute 
brick  and  stone  for  the  wooden  structure,  but 
the  only  advantage  it  will  possess  will  be  in 
looks  and  durability. 

The  first  and  most  important  consideration 
should  be  the  location.  When  possible  it 
should  be  high  and  gently  sloping  in  every  di- 
rection, so  that  during  the  rainy  season  pools 
and  puddles  cannot  form  in  the  yards  or  runs, 
and  in  a  downpour  the  ground  can  be  washed 
and  the  surface  water  drained  off  promptly. 
The  soil  should  be  dry  and  light,  and  free 
from  clay. 

The  plan  illustrated  provides  kennels  and 
grounds  for  twenty  couples;  the  size  of  the 
runs,  yards,  and  grounds  can  be  regulated  by 
the  amount  of  land  at  one's  disposal,  the 
larger  in  area  the  better.  The  minimum 
should  be  one  acre.  The  outer  fencing  should 
be  of  nine-inch  cedar  posts,  set  three  feet  in 
the  ground.  A  trench  two  feet  deep  should 


76  THE  FOXHOUND 

then  be  dug,  and  a  twenty-four-inch  heavy  two- 
inch  mesh  galvanized  wire  netting  called  hog 
Wire  stretched  from  post  to  post  beneath  the 
surface.  Fill  the  trench,  tamping  the  dirt 
compactly.  This  will  insure  against  any 
hounds  digging  out. 

Three-inch  strips,  eight  feet  long,  of  rough 
oak  fencing,  securely  nailed  on  the  outside  of 
the  stringers,  with  two-inch  spaces  between, 
will  forever  prevent  scaling  or  gnawing  out. 
Should  any  portion  of  the  outside  fence  lie 
upon  or  near  a  public  passageway  it  should  be 
boarded  up  solid  with  ordinary  fencing  plank, 
care  being  taken  to  stop  up  all  cracks  or  knot- 
holes, all  such  being  a  fruitful  source  of  noise 
in  a  kennel.  The  same  instructions  should  be 
observed  in  erecting  the  division  fences  on 
the  pack  side  of  the  kennels,  except  that  the 
three-inch  strips  need  only  be  five  feet  long, 
placed  three  inches  apart,  with  a  two-foot  gal- 
vanized wire  netting  stretched  along  the  top 
as  well  as  beneath  the  surface.  This  will  allow 
more  sunlight  and  breeze. 

The  division  fences  on  the  breeding,  hos- 
pital, and  puppy  sides  should  all  have  solid 
fences  four  feet  high  with  three-foot  netting 
along  the  top,  and  two-foot  wire  in  the 
trenches.  Gateways  throughout  should  have 


KENNELS  77 

automatic  catches  in  addition  to  a  simple  slide 
or  bar  on  each,  and  should  be  wide  enough  to 
admit  a  wheelbarrow.  The  dimensions  given 
on  the  plan  of  kennels  are  the  minimum  and 
can  be  increased  as  desired,  but  should  never 
be  diminished.  The  foundation  should  be  of 
brick  and  the  floor  at  least  thirty  inches  from 
the  ground.  The  space  beneath  the  floor  can 
be  partitioned  off  with  plan  the  same  as  the 
floor  plan,  with  a  ten  by  twenty  slide  door, 
opening  into  each  yard  or  run.  A  piece  of 
carpet  hanging  over  this  opening  will  admit 
the  hounds,  yet  darken  the  place  sufficiently  to 
keep  out  the  flies  and  heat. 

A  twenty-four  by  twenty-four-inch  trapdoor 
on  hinges  should  be  placed  in  the  floor  of  each 
compartment.  This  makes  an  admirable  re- 
treat for  the  hounds  from  the  heat  and  flies, 
the  latter  being  the  curse  of  all  kenneled 
hounds. 

A  light  bed  of  pine  shavings  on  the  bare 
ground  under  the  floor,  with  an  occasional 
sprinkling  of  turpentine,  will  keep  all  flies  and 
vermin  away,  and  should  not  be  overlooked, 
else  the  entire  kennels  will  become  infested 
with  these  pests. 

The  flooring  should  be  doubled,  with  a 
layer  of  good  roofing  paper  between,  the  top 


78  THE  FOXHOUND 

floor  being  matched.  Brick  and  asphalt  floors 
should  never  be  used;  concrete  is  the  best  of 
such  floors,  but  I  do  not  advise  its  use.  It  is 
more  or  less  conducive  to  kennel  lameness, 
which  is  simply  another  form  of  rheumatism. 
In  mild  climates  the  siding  may  be  of  boxing, 
well  stripped,  but  in  colder  climates  it  should 
be  plastered,  or  have  the  addition  of  a  good 
building  paper,  or,  better  still,  some  of  the 
many  eel  grass  papers,  on  the  sheathing. 
Under  no  circumstances  should  a  metal  roof 
be  used.  They  are  cold  in  winter  and  intensely 
hot  in  summer,  and  have  nothing  but  their 
price  to  recommend  them.  Shingles  are  the 
best. 

Each  compartment  should  have  a  narrow 
door  with  a  latch  on  the  outside,  a  sliding 
door  twelve  by  eighteen,  six  inches  from  the 
floor,  a  sliding  window  and  wire  screen  open- 
ing into  the  rear  compartments,  placed  six  feet 
from  floor;  an  adjustable  ventilator  arranged 
to  throw  the  draft  against  the  ceiling  when 
open. 

A  portable  sleeping  bench  can  be  made  with 
twelve-inch  solid  back  and  four-inch  rail 
around  sides  and  front,  with  short  legs  six 
inches  high  which  will  prevent  crawling  under- 
neath. This  style  bench  can  be  taken  out, 


KENNELS  79 

scrubbed,  dried,  and  ventilated,  a  most  impor- 
tant consideration. 

The  cook-room  should  have  a  small,  up- 
right, single-flue,  four-horse  power  boiler  for 
generating  steam,  connected  to  a  steam-jack- 
eted kettle  holding  sixty  gallons.  This  is  a 
far  better  way  of  cooking  food  than  the  direct- 
fire  furnaces  and  kettle,  the  food  cannot  be 
scorched,  and  can  be  more  thoroughly,  evenly, 
and  quickly  cooked. 

The  storeroom  can  be  used  for  the  storage 
of  raw  and  cooked  food,  straw,  brooms,  mops, 
shovels,  etc.,  and  should  have  a  good-sized 
closet  for  the  kennelman's  individual  use,  as 
well  as  a  well-arranged  medicine  chest. 

All  four  sides  of  the  kennel  should  have  a 
covered  porch  from  four  to  six  feet  wide,  upon 
which  should  be  located  the  gates  connecting 
the  different  yards,  where  the  hounds  can  lie 
during  wet  and  rainy  weather. 

If  the  weather  is  cold  enough  to  require 
heating  the  kennels,  which  is  seldom,  if  ever, 
the  case,  a  coil  of  steam  pipe  can  be  run 
through  the  compartments,  connected  to  and 
returning  the  condensation  to  the  boiler.  Indi- 
vidual whelping  boxes  should  be  placed  in  the 
breeding  yard.  They  should  be  thirty  inches 
high  at  back,  and  forty-two  inches  in  front, 


80  THE  FOXHOUND 

forty-eight  by  forty-eight  in  the  clear,  roof 
covered  with  waterproof  paper,  and  hinged  so 
as  to  lift  entire  roof  easily,  the  hinges  being 
in  front.  The  opening  in  front,  at  either  side, 
should  be  small,  ten  by  eighteen,  and  closed  by 
hanging  carpet,  ventilation  being  secured  by 
raising  the  hinged  roof  the  desired  height  from 
the  floor.  A  shelf  six  inches  wide,  four  inches 
from  the  floor,  should  extend  all  around  four 
sides,  thus  preventing  lying  upon  the  pups, 
when  young,  or  crowding  them  into  a  corner, 
a  practice  very  common  with  hound  bitches, 
and  the  means  of  killing  a  large  percentage 
of  pups. 

Straw  is  the  best  bedding,  and  should  be  re- 
newed as  soon  as  the  bitch  is  through  whelp- 
ing. Boxes,  similar  to  the  whelping  boxes, 
minus  the  shelf,  can  be  used  to  great  advan- 
tage in  the  puppy  yard,  and  should  be  white- 
washed inside  and  out  every  fortnight — the 
wash  containing  a  powerful  disinfectant. 
Urinal  posts  of  four  by  four  oak,  set  at  inter- 
vals about  the  yards,  will  be  patronized  to  the 
extent  of  saving  the  whitewashed  fences.  The 
habit  can  be  cultivated  by  placing  a  few  drops 
of  oil  of  anise  seed  occasionally  upon  the  posts. 

It  is  an  excellent  idea  to  have  a  hay-rick 
frame  containing  straw  placed  in  the  larger 


KENNELS  81 

yards.  The  hounds  will  enjoy  it  thoroughly 
if  placed  at  a  height  they  can  jump  upon  and 
romp  about  on.  On  cold  days  they  will  lie 
upon  it,  sunning  themselves,  and  in  the  hot 
weather  will  seek  its  shade.  The  straw  will 
have  to  be  renewed  but  seldom. 

If  in  a  warm  climate  a  trench  three  feet 
wide,  two  feet  deep,  and  ten  feet  long,  board- 
ed over,  covered  with  dirt  and  left  open  at 
one  end,  will  be  much  patronized  and  appre- 
ciated by  hounds  in  the  summer  months.  This 
should  be  closed  in  winter. 

Theoretical  hunters  and  breeders  may  smile 
at  the  crudeness  of  the  trench  and  straw-rick 
arrangements  for  the  pleasure  and  comfort  of 
the  hounds,  but  if  they  will  try  them  they  will 
readily  see  the  advantages  they  possess. 

The  floors  should  be  sprinkled  with  dry 
slaked  lime  once  a  week  except  in  wet  weather 
and  the  walks  and  benches  whitewashed  not 
less  than  once  a  month.  This  lime  is  a  power- 
ful disinfectant  and  will  keep  out  fleas,  lice, 
and  vermin  and  tend  to  harden  the  hound's 
feet  and  kill  the  germs  of  mange,  distemper, 
and  black  tongue. 

In  summer  a  light  sprinkling  of  sawdust  may 
be  put  on  top  of  the  lime  and  in  the  winter  a 
good  clean  bed  of  straw;  both,  however,  should 


82  THE  FOXHOUND 

be  renewed  and  removed  regularly,  especially 
the  straw  when  it  becomes  damp.  In  climates 
where  straw  is  not  considered  necessary  for 
warmth  it  serves  the  purpose  of  preventing  the 
rubbing  off  of  hair  and  bed  sores  frequently 
seen  upon  hounds  kenneled  for  any  length  of 
time.  Shavings  while  lacking  the  warmth  of 
straw  are  a  good  substitute,  especially  pine 
shavings  which  contain  more  or  less  turpentine, 
the  odor  of  which  is  very  distasteful  to  fleas, 
the  pest  of  most  kennels. 

Clean  gravel  makes  excellent  kennel  yards, 
and  should  be  thick  enough  to  prevent  absorp- 
tion by  the  ground  beneath  of  the  droppings. 
Ashes  and  cinders,  while  not  so  good  as  the 
gravel,  can  be  substituted;  they  are  cheaper, 
more  easily  obtained,  and  should  be  renewed 
oftener.  Before  putting  in  a  new  supply  the 
yard  should  be  liberally  sprinkled  with  lime. 

Platforms  4x8  feet,  made  of  one-inch  rough 
boards  nailed  upon  2x4  scantlings  to  raise 
them  from  the  ground  should  be  placed  in  each 
kennel  yard  for  the  hounds  to  lie  upon  and 
sun  themselves  in  good  weather  and  keep  dry 
in  damp  weather,  as  they  should  not  be  allowed 
access  to  the  kennel  sleeping  room  except  in 
extremely  cold  and  bad  weather. 

One  should  avoid  chaining  a  hound,  espe- 


KENNELS  83 

cially  young  ones.  The  collar  not  only  leaves 
an  unsightly  ring  or  mark  on  the  hair  around 
the  neck,  but  the  frequent  struggling  and  pull- 
ing on  the  chain  pulls  the  shoulders  and  legs 
out  of  shape  and  affects  the  proper  develop- 
ment of  other  parts  of  the  body. 

If  you  have  a  hound  that  can  scale  the  ken- 
nel fence  do  not  chain  but  clog  him,  making 
sure  that  the  clog  is  heavy  enough  to  prevent 
him  hanging  himself.  A  round  cast-iron  ball 
of  about  fifteen  pounds  weight  will  allow  him 
plenty  of  freedom  of  movement.  A  wire 
stretched  across  the  yard,  with  ring  and  chain 
attached,  will  allow  such  a  hound  ample  exer- 
cise. 


DISEASES   AND   REMEDIES 


CHAPTER   VI 

DISEASES  AND  REMEDIES 

I  HAVE  aimed  to  describe  in  plain  and 
simple  language  the  diseases  to  which 
hounds  are  most  subject,  their  signs  and 
symptoms,  and  the  simplest  and  most  rational 
methods  of  treating  them.  There  are  of 
course  many  other  diseases  to  which  they  are 
subject  which  lack  of  space  will  not  allow  me 
to  touch  upon.  If  proper  attention  is  paid  to 
the  laws  of  sanitation  and  disinfectants  are 
used  liberally  these  diseases  may  be  avoided, 
as  a  large  percentage  of  them  come  under  the 
heading  of  preventable. 

Dogs  are  subject  to  almost  every  disease  the 
human  system  is  heir  to.  Hounds,  from  the 
amount  of  exercise  they  get  and  their  regular 
and  simple  habits,  are  immune  from  many  of 
them,  being  singularly  free  from  those  of  a 
cerebral  and  spinal  character  so  common  in 
other  breeds,  the  most  common  hound  ailment 
facing  di$temper  and  skin  diseases, 


88  THE  FOXHOUND 

While  this  is  in  no  sense  a  "  medical  "  work, 
there  are  doubtless  many  novices  in  the  raising 
and  handling  of  hounds  to  whom  the  following 
simple  remedies  may  prove  of  value.  Remem- 
ber there  are  no  specifics  in  canine  practice  and 
no  medicines  which  are  sure  cures,  always,  for 
the  same  diseases,  but  the  following  remedies 
have  been  tried  successfully,  and  if  properly 
administered  will  be  found  efficacious  in  a 
large  majority  of  cases. 

The  strictest  attention  to  cleanliness  and 
sanitary  conditions  in  a  kennel  alone  will  in- 
sure sound,  healthy  animals,  capable  of  sus- 
taining the  hard  work  hounds  are  called  upon 
to  perform  during  the  hunting  season.  No 
matter  how  much  confidence  one  has  in  the 
ability  and  faithfulness  of  an  attendant,  con- 
stant vigilance  should  never  be  relaxed  by  the 
master  in  supervising  these  details. 

The  constant  use  of  powerful  disinfectants 
is  highly  necessary  in  every  kennel.  Solutions 
of  carbolic  acid,  bichloride  of  mercury,  sul- 
phate of  copper,  or  chloride  of  lime  can  be 
had  of  any  druggist;  and  walls,  floors,  and 
fencing  should  be  sprayed  or  sprinkled  twice  a 
month  in  summer  and  once  a  month  in  winter. 
Many  disinfecting  preparations  on  the  market 
are  equally  effective  and  more  convenient  on 


DISEASES   AND  REMEDIES  89 

account  of  the  manner  in  which  they  are  put 
up.  If  the  yards  and  runs  are  small  and  over- 
crowded, twice  a  year  the  yards  should  be  well 
sprinkled  with  lime  and  plowed  up  or  spaded 
over  and  where  possible  covered  to  the  depth 
of  two  inches  with  fresh  earth  or  soil.  Neglect 
of  this  precaution  will  cause  sore  and  tender 
feet,  and  a  master  or  huntsman  well  knows 
what  this  affliction  means  in  a  pack  in  the  way 
of  trouble  and  loss  of  hunting. 

Let  me  emphasize  the  importance  of  doing 
whatever  is  necessary  without  delay.  Any 
complaint  that  is  taken  in  hand  in  its  earlier 
stages,  before  it  becomes  thoroughly  estab- 
lished, is  easier  to  combat  than  if  it  has  quite 
got  into  the  system.  The  information  given 
here  will  be  found  especially  useful  in  detect- 
ing ailments  in  the  early  stages.  Those  own- 
ers who  are  blessed  with  a  fair  amount  of 
common  sense  and  have  some  little  knowledge 
of  hygienic  principles  will  be  able  in  many  cases 
to  diagnose  the  diseases  and  to  administer  such 
remedies  as  will  be  likely  gradually  but  surely 
to  restore  the  health  of  the  animal. 

In  all  serious  cases  the  experience  and  prac- 
tical knowledge  of  a  duly  qualified  veterinary 
surgeon  should  be  obtained  without  delay,  for 
though  an  unskilled  person  may  have  a  fair 


90  THE  FOXHOUND 

amount  of  knowledge,  it  is  very  unwise  to  trust 
valuable  animals  to  chance. 

Every  hound  should  be  carefully  examined 
daily,  by  the  hand  as  well  as  by  the  eye.  The 
general  condition  of  the  body  can  be  noted  at 
a  glance  by  one  accustomed  to  it,  but  many 
minor  troubles  can  be  brought  to  sight  by  the 
hand.  After  each  run  a  careful  examination 
should  be  made  of  every  hound  participating 
in  the  run.  Holding  the  hound  with  one  hand 
by  the  muzzle,  examine  eyes,  feel  ears,  place 
back  of  hand  to  nose,  run  the  hand  down  each 
leg,  squeezing  the  foot  and  examining  pads  and 
stoppers. 

Remove  thorns  or  foreign  substances  which 
are  likely  to  set  up  inflammation  and  incapaci- 
tate hound  from  next  hunt.  Look  for  barbed- 
wire  cuts,  wood  ticks,  burns,  and  feel  texture 
of  coat  and  general  condition  of  body. 

MANGE 

Hounds  being  kept  in  large  numbers  to- 
gether are  naturally  greater  sufferers  from 
contagious  diseases  than  other  breeds  of  dogs, 
and  mange  is  the  curse  of  the  majority  of  the 
packs.  While  it  is  true  that  mange  is  depend- 
ent upon  contagion,  there  are  several  forms  of 


DISEASES  AND  REMEDIES  91 

this  loathsome  disease  that  arise  from  the 
keep,  lack  of  exercise,  improper  food,  and  bed- 
ding. 

I  have  yet  to  see  the  attendant  who  could 
keep  his  kenneled  pack  free  of  mange  and  ver- 
min without  dipping.  Where  a  pack  consists 
of  twenty  or  thirty  couples,  dipping,  unless  one 
is  prepared  for  it,  is  quite  an  undertaking. 

The  simplest  apparatus  to  be  used  effectively 
is  made  as  follows:  Construct  a  galvanized 
iron  tank  forty-two  inches  long,  fifteen  inches 
wide,  and  twenty-eight  inches  deep.  Fill  the 
tank  twenty  inches  deep  with  a  solution  of  fifty 
parts  tepid  water  to  one  part  sheep  dip,  sanitas, 
phenyle,  chloro-naptholeum,  West's  or  any  of 
the  many  disinfecting  fluids — not  containing 
carbolic  acid — which  are  commonly  advertised. 

If  preferred  you  can  make  your  own  mange 
dip  at  a  nominal  trifling  cost  as  follows  and 
it  will  be  found  equally  as  effective : 

Three  pounds  of  Babbitt's  concentrated  lye 
and  five  pounds  powdered  sulphur  in  four  gal- 
lons of  water;  let  it  set  over  night;- add  twenty 
gallons  of  water  next  morning  and  four  ounces 
of  sulphuric  acid,  and  let  it  set  for  four  hours 
before  using.  Place  hound  in  tank  and  with 
a  dipper  pour  the  liquid  over  him  for  two  min- 
utes, wetting  each  inch  of  him,  being  careful  of 


92  THE  FOXHOUND 

the  eyes.  Twenty  couples  can  thus  be  dipped 
in  a  comparatively  short  time  without  any 
struggling,  splashing  or  confusion.  A  few  dip- 
pings will  cure  the  most  stubborn  case  of 
mange.  Dip  them  every  fortnight  and  your 
pack  will  always  be  clear  of  mange,  skin  dis- 
eases, and  vermin. 

Mange  can  also  be  quickly  cured  with  one 
pound  of  sulphur,  one  quart  of  fish-oil,  two 
ounces  each  of  oil  of  tar  and  turpentine,  and 
should  be  tried  before  using  harsher  remedies. 

This  may  seem  a  rather  simple  treatment 
for  a  disease  which  canine  pathologists  and 
veterinarians  exhaust  volumes  upon,  but  it  is 
based  entirely  upon  practice  and  not  theory, 
and  fully  covers  the  subject,  as  a  trial  will 
demonstrate. 

FLEAS 

Vermin  often  are  very  troublesome  to 
hounds  and  whole  packs  are  made  miserable 
by  the  presence  of  these  pests,  through  the 
ignorance  of  the  attendant  in  not  knowing  how 
to  dispose  of  them.  There  is  absolutely  no 
excuse  for  this;  the  dipping  of  hounds,  recom- 
mended above,  will  kill  all  upon  their  bodies, 
and  if  the  floors  and  walls  of  the  kennels  arc 


DISEASES   AND  REMEDIES  93 

sprinkled  with  a  little  turpentine,  or  what  is 
left  of  the  dip,  it  will  be  found  sufficiently  po- 
tent to  exterminate  or  drive  them  away,  and 
a  flea  will  never  be  found  on  the  premises. 

ECZEMA 

Eczema,  frequently  mistaken  for  mange,  is, 
however,  entirely  different,  and  can  only  be 
cured  by  constitutional  treatment  requiring 
time  and  patience.  For  several  years  my  dif- 
ferent kennelmen  were  constantly  treating  the 
hounds  for  mange,  and  only  after  employing 
the  microscope  discovered  it  was  eczema.  It 
is  non-contagious,  is  an  individual  disease,  and 
is  never  transmitted.  It  is  caused  by  lack  of 
exercise,  constipation,  overfeeding,  injurious 
foods,  and  indigestion,  few  packs  being  exempt 
from  it.  In  a  majority  of  cases  of  eczema  in 
hounds,  it  is  caused  from  the  continued  use  of 
starchy  foods,  while  mange  is  aggravated  by 
feeding  too  much  flesh. 

Therefore,  in  either  case,  the  first  step  is  to 
change  the  food.  If  this  cannot  be  accom- 
plished, add  ten  grains  of  hyposulphite  of  soda 
for  each  hound  in  the  kennel,  in  cooking  the 
food.  If  for  individual  cases,  Fowler's  solu- 
tion of  arsenic  will  effect  a  cure;  give  six  drops 


94  THE  FOXHOUND 

twice  a  day,  increasing  the  dose  two  drops 
daily  until  thirty  drops  are  being  given,  then 
decrease  the  dose  in  the  same  manner  down 
to  the  original  dose  of  six  drops.  The  irritat- 
ing ointments  and  mange  cures  should  be 
avoided  entirely,  being  generally  worse  than 
useless. 

The  following  lotion  is  both  cooling  and 
healing,  and  should  be  applied  twice  daily  to 
the  sore  and  inflamed  parts;  four  drachms 
Goulard's  extract  of  lead  and  four  drachms 
laudanum  to  a  pint  of  water. 

The  earliest  symptom  of  eczema  is  an  itch- 
ing, the  hound  scratching  himself  on  every 
occasion.  Upon  examination  a  redness  and 
thickness  will  be  noticed;  no  sores  are  visible 
as  in  mange.  The  second  stage  cannot  be  mis- 
taken. Small  vesicles  form  filled  with  pus, 
which  on  breaking  out  mat  the  hair  together, 
causing  it  to  fall  out  and  leave  a  spot  with  a 
wet,  inflamed,  exuding  surface. 

As  compared  with  mange,  eczema  is  a  stub- 
born disease,  hard  to  cure,  and  should  never 
be  neglected,  but  treated  in  its  first  stage.  If 
unable  to  diagnose  the  two,  a  powerful  micro- 
scope will  soon  set  your  doubts  at  rest,  as  the 
parasite  always  present  in  mange  does  not 
appear  in  eczema. 


DISEASES   AND  REMEDIES  95 

DISTEMPER 

It  is  not  an  exaggeration  to  state  that  three- 
fourths  of  the  canine  race  die  from  distemper. 
It  is  an  acute,  infectious  disease  characterized 
by  inflammation  of  the  mucous  membranes  of 
the  mouth,  nose,  throat,  stomach,  and  bowels. 
Whether  it  is  of  microbic  origin  or  originates 
spontaneously  is  a  much  discussed  problem,  but 
it  is  sufficient  for  our  purpose  to  know  that  it 
is  highly  contagious  and  subjects  should  be 
immediately  isolated. 

It  is  of  the  greatest  importance  that  it  be 
detected  in  its  earliest  stages  and  treatment 
commenced  at  once.  The  earliest  symptoms 
are  sneezing,  a  dry,  husky  cough,  and  wiping 
the  nose  with  the  paws,  then  a  watery  discharge 
from  the  nose  and  the  eyes  which  are  more  or 
less  reddened.  These  symptoms  may  also  be 
present  in  a  bad  cold,  but  if  the  dog  shivers, 
seeks  warmth,  and  nose  is  dry  and  crusty,  and 
a  loss  of  appetite  is  apparent,  treatment  for 
distemper  should  be  commenced  immediately. 
Every  man  owning  hounds  should  have  a  clin- 
ical thermometer;  one  can  be  had  from  any 
druggist  for  75  cents,  and  at  this  stage  is  al- 
most a  certain  indication  of  this  disease  if  it 
registers  above  101  in  the  rectum  (normal). 


96  THE  FOXHOUND 

There  are  several  serums  and  anti-toxin 
preparations  on  the  market  to  be  given  hypo- 
dermically  that  are  supposed  to  immunize  and 
to  cure  distemper.  I  have  tried  all  of  them, 
and  find  while  they  will  immunize  for  a  short 
period,  say  during  a  bench  show  or  field  trial, 
the  effect  soon  wears  off.  They  undoubtedly 
make  the  attack  lighter  and  assist  a  hound  to 
quicker  recovery,  but  cannot  be  depended  upon 
to  cure  unaided  a  severe  attack.  A  hound 
should  be  watched  closely  and  carefully  nursed 
throughout  the  sickness,  and  the  many  compli- 
cations especially  of  stomach  and  intestines 
combated.  I  have  tried  every  remedy  I  could 
hear  of,  and  cannot  say  that  I  have  found 
them  any  better  than  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  or 
a  teaspoonful  of  common  kerosene  once  a  day 
for  a  grown  hound  and  half  for  a  puppy. 

Careful  nursing,  proper  food  to  keep  up 
strength  and  keeping  them  from  exposure  to 
damp  weather  will  do  as  much  toward  recov- 
ery as  medicines. 

There  is  generally  severe  diarrhea  which,  if 
not  promptly  checked,  goes  into  dysentery. 
The  stools  are  thin,  offensive,  sometimes  black, 
and  more  generally  streaked  with  blood.  Doses 
of  from  two  to  three  tablespoonfuls  of  castor 
oil  should  be  given  every  third  or  fourth  day 


DISEASES  AND  REMEDIES  97 

and  if  not  checked  starched  enemas  must  be 
resorted  to.  They  should  have  no  water  un- 
less rice  has  been  boiled  in  it  and  they  should 
be  fed  boiled  milk  with  browned  flour  stirred 
in  it.  Ten-grain  doses  of  bismuth  daily  will 
also  assist  in  correcting  bowel  derangements. 
The  most  important  thing  is  to  keep  up  the 
strength  and  tempt  their  appetite  with  a  vari- 
ety of  food,  including  milk  and  eggs.  When 
a  hound  quits  eating,  the  case  is  serious  indeed, 
and  forced  feed  should  be  resorted  to,  eggs 
and  milk  with  a  little  whisky  or  brandy  added 
should  be  given;  several  tablespoonfuls  five  or 
six  times  a  day,  or  a  teaspoonful  of  syrup  hypo- 
phosphites  several  times  a  day  is  a  most  excel- 
lent tonic. 

At  the  end  of  the  first  week  they  should  be 
treated  for  the  abscess  that  frequently  forms 
at  end  of  spine  or  root  of  tail.  Grasp  tail  with 
left  hand  and  pull  it  back,  with  finger  and 
thumb  of  right  hand  squeeze  anus  hard;  this 
will  burst  the  abscess.  Repeat  in  five  days. 
Paralysis,  so  common  in  this  disease,  is  caused 
by  this  abscess. 

CHOREA 
Chorea  is  one  of  the  distressing  after-effects 


98  THE  FOXHOUND 

of  distemper.  The  most  frequent  symptoms 
are  a  spasmodic  jerking  or  twitching  of  the 
muscles;  while  distressing  to  look  at,  the  hound 
suffers  no  physical  pain  whatever.  It  is  a  most 
obstinate  disease  and  a  hound  is  seldom  worth 
the  trouble  necessary  to  effect  a  cure.  Give 
five  drops  of  Fowler's  solution  of  arsenic,  in- 
crease the  dose  daily  two  drops  until  up  to 
thirty-six  drops;  then  decrease  the  dose  five 
drops  daily  until  back  to  the  five  drops.  If  no 
decided  improvement  is  noticed,  give  the  hound 
away.  If  you  feel  encouraged,  go  through  the 
treatment  again  and  again.  Remember  arsenic 
is  poisonous. 

WORMS 

It  is  a  fact  not  generally  known  that  all  pups 
are  infested  with  worms  and  frequently  when 
ten  days  old;  therefore  do  not  wait  or  look  for 
symptoms,  but  treat  all  pups  when  five  weeks 
old,  whether  they  show  any  signs  or  not.  How- 
ever, if  the  following  symptoms  are  present  at 
four  weeks  of  age,  do  not  hesitate  to  treat 
them.  All  of  the  worm  medicines  advertised 
are  good  for  grown  dogs,  but  many  of  them 
will  kill  or  stunt  pups  of  this  age. 

The  presence  of  worms  in  pups  is  indicated 


DISEASES   AND   REMEDIES  99 

as  follows:  constant  whining  and  moaning  as 
if  in  pain,  capricious  appetite,  bloating  of  the 
abdomen,  sometimes  distended  astonishingly, 
discharge  from  the  bowels  frequent  and  wa- 
tery, with  a  reddish  color.  Give  on  an  empty 
stomach,  preceded  the  night  before  by  a  des- 
sert-spoonful of  castor  oil,  one  teaspoonful  of 
the  following: 

Worms  seed  oil 65  drops 

Oil   of  turpentine 8  drops 

Olive  oil   2  ounces 

Castor  oil   3  ounces 

Do  not  feed  for  several  hours  afterwards. 

For  tapeworm,  on  an  empty  stomach  give 
one  pill  containing  thirty-two  grains  areca  nut 
(freshly  grated),  eight  grains  santonine,  and 
five  drops  male  fern,  followed  with  dose  of  cas- 
tor oil  in  four  hours.  If  bowels  are  loose  after 
treatment,  boil  rice  in  drinking  water  and  give 
five  grains  bismuth  twice  a  day  until  checked. 
Repeat  dose  weekly  until  no  segments  of  tape- 
worm are  passed  in  actions. 

The  hookworm  is  a  parasite  that  is  killing 
thousands  of  dogs  annually,  especially  puppies. 
Few  are  familiar  with  it  and  lose  their  dogs 
without  suspecting  its  presence.  The  first 
symptoms  of  hookworm  are  a  dull,  sleepy  look, 


100  THE  FOXHOUND 

a  lazy  gait,  lying  around,  loss  of  appetite;  the 
second  stages  are  rapid  emaciation,  dead  look- 
ing coat  of  hair,  the  ball  of  the  eye  turning 
white,  gums,  tongue,  and  roof  of  mouth  white 
and  bloodless,  and  a  generally  anemic  appear- 
ance. 

It  is  unlike  any  of  the  worms  dogs  are  sub- 
ject to;  it  never  gets  larger  than  a  small  cotton 
thread,  nor  over  half  an  inch  in  length,  and  is 
very  hard  to  find.  It  does  not  live  upon  the 
food  taken  by  the  dog,  but  fastens  itself  to  the 
mucous  membrane  lining  of  the  stomach  and 
intestines  by  its  hook-shaped  head  and  feeds 
upon  the  blood  of  its  victim  until  it  becomes 
weak  and  anemic  and  dies  without  apparent 
cause.  Unlike  other  worms,  they  do  not  enter 
through  the  mouth  or  throat  of  their  subjects, 
but  burrow  their  way  through  any  portion  of 
the  body,  frequently  starting  in  through  the 
feet  and  legs — a  post  mortem  will  show  little 
red  spots  in  the  intestines  where  they  have  done 
their  work. 

While  any  and  all  the  vermifuges  and  worm 
medicines  sold  will  expel  the  ordinary  worms, 
they  are  absolutely  worthless  in  combating  the 
hookworm.  The  only  successful  remedy  I  have 
ever  tried  is  to  give  a  dose  of  Epsom  salts  at 
night,  and  next  morning  on  an  empty  stomach 


DISEASES   AND   REMEDIES     101 

five  grains  of  thymol  (for  pups),  followed  in 
an  hour  with  another  dose  of  salts  (under  no 
circumstances  give  oil)  ;  repeat  this  every  other 
day  for  three  treatments  and  if  no  improve- 
ment is  noted  in  condition  of  the  patient  at 
the  end  of  ten  days  repeat.  Remove  the  hound 
from  its  quarters,  as  it  will  soon  become  rein- 
fected  as  the  very  ground  becomes  impregnated 
with  them  and  the  germ  is  almost  indestruc- 
tible. It  is  an  absolute  impossibility  to  raise 
pups  in  kennels  that  have  once  become  infected 
with  the  hookworm. 

HYDROPHOBIA 

Hydrophobia  is  generally  supposed  to  affect 
hounds  more  frequently  than  any  other  breed; 
this  is  not  a  fact.  Hydrophobia  is  extremely 
rare  in  any  breed,  in  fact  reputable  writers 
declare  there  is  no  such  disease,  claiming  it  to 
be  one  of  imagination  only.  Occasionally  a 
case  may  occur  in  a  hound,  which  will  commun- 
icate it  to  a  whole  pack,  all  of  whom  may  have 
to  be  destroyed,  whereas  a  dog  of  another  breed 
having  it  would  be  detected  and  destroyed  be- 
fore he  would  have  any  opportunity  of  com- 
municating it  to  but  few  others. 

When  hounds  do  have  hydrophobia  it  is  most 


102  THE  FOXHOUND 

frequently  in  the  form  of  dumb  rabies  and  not 
the  violent,  maniacal  form  that  causes  them  to 
"  run  amuck."  Ashmont  says : 

"  The  dumb,  or  swollen  form  of  rabies  is 
a  peculiar  type  of  hydrophobia  without  the 
violent  irritative  stage.  There  is  decidedly  less 
excitation  of  the  brain;  the  violent  paroxysms, 
the  constant  motion,  the  disposition  to  bite,  and 
the  propensity  to  stray  are  all  absent,  or  present 
in  only  a  slight  degree,  and  the  animal  is  quiet, 
silent,  and  dejected.  Paralysis  of  the  muscles 
of  the  lower  jaw  is  a  characteristic  symptom 
of  this  form  of  malady,  and  manifests  itself 
early  in  the  attack.  The  jaw  drops  and  the 
mouth  remains  constantly  open.  In  rare  cases 
a  partial  control  of  the  muscles  is  retained  for 
a  time,  sufficient  to  lift  the  jaw  and  allow  the 
animal  to  bite  if  sufficiently  irritated. 

"  Rarely  more  than  a  few  hours,  possibly 
three  or  four,  elapse  before  the  disease  mani- 
fests itself.  Before  this  paralysis  appears 
there  is  great  difficulty  in  swallowing,  and  the 
poor  dog  will  plunge  his  muzzle  into  water  up 
to  his  very  eyes,  in  order  that  he  may  get  one 
drop  of  water  into  the  back  part  of  his  mouth 
to  cool  his  parched  throat.  In  this  form  of 
rabies  the  flow  of  mucus  and  saliva  is  abundant, 
the  same  dripping  from  the  mouth.  The  voice, 


DISEASES   AND   REMEDIES     103 

changed  and  of  a  hoarse  tone,  is  seldom  heard, 
and  that  peculiar  combination  of  bark  and  howl, 
characteristic  of  the  violent  form  of  the  dis- 
ease, is  entirely  absent." 

BLACK  TONGUE 

I  give  this  description  of  dumb  rabies  in  full 
to  enable  the  reader  to  detect  the  difference 
between  it  and  a  peculiar  disease  that  hounds, 
especially  in  the  South,  are  frequently  afflicted 
with.  Though  I  have  read  all  the  best  works 
on  the  diseases  of  the  dog,  published  both  in 
this  country  and  in  England,  I  have  never 
seen  it  mentioned. 

It  does  not  seem  to  have  come  under  the 
observation  of  canine  specialists.  It  is  called 
"  Black  Tongue,"  is  generally  fatal,  and  is 
contagious.  The  symptoms  are  almost  identi- 
cal with  those  of  dumb  rabies,  with  the  ex- 
ception that  the  tongue  turns  black  and  the 
mucous  membrane  linings  of  the  throat  are 
sore  and  inflamed.  It  is  only  recently  that  a 
remedy  has  been  found,  all  cases  formerly  re- 
sisting treatment  and  proving  fatal. 

The  remedy  and  treatment  are  as  follows: 
Paint  the  inside  of  the  lips  and  tongue  with 
tincture  of  bloodroot  once  a  day,  and  give,  a, 


104  THE  FOXHOUND 

tablet  of  one-twentieth  of  a  grain  of  bichloride 
of  mercury  three  times  a  day.  Keep  the  hound 
on  a  milk  diet  until  cured,  and  on  soft  foods 
for  some  time  gradually  returning  to  solids. 
If  the  hound  will  not  drink  milk  freely,  add  a 
little  brandy  and  beaten  eggs,  to  milk,  and 
pour  a  few  spoonfuls  down  the  throat  every 
few  hours. 

POISON 

Hounds  at  liberty  frequently  pick  up  poisons 
which  may  have  been  laid  down  for  vermin, 
etc.  The  principal  ingredients  which  hounds 
are  likely  to  get  in  this  way  are  arsenic,  carbolic 
acid,  phosphorus,  and  strychnine.  Hounds  are 
such  inveterate  creatures  for  poking  their  noses 
into  strange  places  that  they  soon  find  any- 
thing tasty,  and  in  this  way  greedily  eat.  If  by 
chance  a  dog  should  eat  any  poison,  the  first 
step  is  to  empty  the  stomach  by  a  quick  acting 
emetic  such  as  tartar  emetic,  or  even  warm 
water  with  salt  or  mustard  in  small  quantities, 
afterwards  giving  some  antidote,  such  as  lard, 
milk  and  egg,  olive  oil,  etc.,  in  large  quantitty. 
Castor  oil  is  also  very  useful,  and  if  there  is 
much  pain,  a  dose  of  laudanum  every  three  or 
four  hours. 


DISEASES  AND   REMEDIES     105 

It  is  easy  to  tell  by  the  continued  spasmodic 
convulsions  that  a  dog  has  taken  poison.  If 
there  is  much  depression  a  little  whisky  or 
brandy  may  be  given  at  frequent  intervals.  An 
antidote  for  both  arsenic  and  strychnine  poison- 
ing should  always  be  kept  in  the  kennel,  and 
the  huntsman  should  familiarize  himself  with 
the  characteristic  symptoms  of  each  and  carry 
a  supply  of  antidote  with  him  to  the  field, 
especially  if  there  has  been  any  friction  with 
the  farmers  in  the  neighborhood.  The  symp- 
toms of  arsenic  poisoning  are  indicated  by 
vomiting  and  swollen  tongue  and  the  symptoms 
of  strychnine  are  twitching  and  jerking  of  the 
limbs  and  muscles. 


FOUL  MOUTH 

Owing  to  the  fact  that  hounds  are  kenneled 
and  have  more  soft  foods  than  the  average  dog, 
they  frequently  have  sore  or  foul  mouth  as 
indicated  by  the  deposit  of  tartar  on  their 
teeth,  sore  and  bleeding  gums  accompanied 
with  slobbering  or  flow  of  saliva  from  the 
mouth.  The  remedy  is  simple  and  quick:  give 
two  tablespoonsful  of  castor  oil  and  pour  a 
teaspoonful  of  ten  per  cent,  solution  of  perman- 


106  THE  FOXHOUND 

ganate  of  potash  in  the  mouth  daily  (not  down 
the  throat)  for  several  days  and  it  will  dis- 
appear. 

SOFT  FEET 

This  is  one  of  the  most  serious,  annoying 
troubles  kenneled  hounds  are  subject  to.  It  is 
generally  caused  by  mange  and  it  is  always 
safe  to  treat  the  feet  first  for  mange  with 
remedy  given  elsewhere;  then  after  a  few 
treatments  for  mange  the  pads  may  be  hardened 
or  indurated  by  soaking  them  daily  in  a  strong 
decoction  of  white  oak  bark  with  a  teaspoonful 
of  powdered  alum  added  to  the  quart.  If  the 
pads  are  worn  through  to  the  quick  and  you 
deem  it  necessary  to  hunt  the  hound,  cover  the 
pad  well  with  collodion  before  casting  off,  it 
will  protect  the  hound  through  quite  a  long 
day's  work. 

CANKER 

Ear  canker  is  a  very  common  disease  among 
hounds  and  is  indicated  by  frequent  shaking 
of  the  head  and  rubbing  the  ear  with  the  paw. 
It  is  divided  into  two  sections,  internal  and  ex- 
ternal. The  former  affects  the  inside  passages 


DISEASES   AND   REMEDIES     107 

of  the  ear  causing  pain,  and  the  hound  in 
violently  shaking  the  head  for  ease  makes  the 
flaps  or  end  of  the  ears  sore  which  soon  become 
affected  and  if  not  attended  to  the  sores  eat 
away  sections  of  the  ear.  A  weak  solution  of 
nitrate  of  silver  poured  into  the  ear  daily  is 
good,  but  it  discolors  the  hair,  the  hand,  and 
the  clothing  of  user,  and  I  have  found  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  one  part  creolin  and  twenty  parts 
water  poured  in  the  ear  daily  and  manipulated 
by  the  hand,  and  an  hour  later  the  same  quan- 
tity of  powdered  borax,  equally  effective.  The 
eating  sore  on  the  flap  or  end  of  the  ear  can 
be  similarly  treated  after  having  first  been 
touched  lightly  with  a  stick  of  lunar  caustic 
along  the  raw  edges. 

RICKETS  ' 

i 

This  is  a  term  applied  to  young,  growing 
pups  with  ill-shaped  legs,  misshapen  joints  or 
the  springing  or  standing  over  in  pastern  joints. 
It  is  caused  by  bad  feeding,  enfeebled  or  imma- 
ture parents,  and  generally  the  lack  of  suffi- 
cient bone-forming  material.  Pups  suffering 
from  rickets  should  have  an  abundance  of  light, 
air  and  sunshine,  given  only  lime  water  to 
drink,  and  have  phosphate  of  lime  sprinkled 


108  THE  FOXHOUND 

over  their  food,  which  should  be  given  them 
often  and  liberally. 

LICE 

Farm-raised  puppies  are  frequently  troubled 
with  lice  and  literally  eaten  up  before  their 
presence  is  suspected  or  discovered,  the  con- 
stant scratching  and  uneasiness  being  attrib- 
uted to  fleas.  A  close  and  careful  examination 
is  necessary  to  detect  them,  as  they  burrow 
almost  into  the  skin.  A  puppy  cannot  thrive  or 
fatten  as  long  as  they  are  present.  One  vigor- 
ous application  of  the  following  mixture  will 
rid  them  of  these  pests:  Kerosene  oil,  one 
pint;  melted  lard,  one-half  pint;  spirits  of  tur- 
pentine, one-half  gill. 

EYES 

Eye  troubles  are  rather  common  in  hounds, 
owing  to  the  exposure  of  the  haw  of  the  eye 
and  the  nature  of  their  work  in  running  through 
bushes  and  briars.  Keep  a  bottle  of  saturated 
solution  of  borax  (boracic  acid)  handy,  bathe 
the  injured  member  carefully  and  put  a  few 
drops  in  the  eye.  Ulcers  or  specks  frequently 
form  on  the  ball  of  the  eye,  especially  after  a 


DISEASES   AND   REMEDIES     109 

weakening  disease,  or  when  a  hound  is  in  poor 
condition.  Touch  the  ulcer  with  a  feather  or 
small  camel's  hair  brush  dipped  in  calomel  and 
bathe  the  eye  with  borax  water. 

WOUNDS 

Hounds  are  constantly  receiving  wounds,  a 
large  percentage  of  them  from  barbed-wire 
fences.  It  is,  of  course,  impossible  to  advise 
here  on  every  kind  of  wound  which  may  come 
to  readers'  dogs,  but  just  a  few  words  on  gen- 
eral principles.  If  the  wound  is  a  straight  one, 
the  parts  should  be  cleansed  and  the  bleeding 
stopped.  This  should  be  followed  by  clipping 
the  hair  close  to  the  wound,  then  sew  the  edges 
together  with  sufficient  stitches,  and  finally 
cover  with  wool  which  has  been  saturated  with 
boracic  acid,  and  bandage  over  securely. 

Watch  must  be  kept  to  see  that  the  surface 
of  the  wound  does  not  heal  too  quickly  and  so 
enclose  pus  or  matter,  which  will  eventually 
find  an  outlet  farther  away  in  the  form  of  an 
abscess.  Before  putting  in  the  stitches  make 
sure  there  is  no  foreign  matter  in  the  wound. 
If  there  is  any  doubt  on  this  point,  apply  a  hot 
poultice  night  and  morning  until  sure.  It  is 
usually  necessary  to  muzzle  the  dog  for  a  few 


110  THE  FOXHOUND 

days  or  he  will  tear  off  the  bandage  and  pos- 
sibly make  the  wound  worse  by  pulling  out  the 
stitches  to  allay  any  irritation.  Dogs  will  as- 
sist nature  by  licking  unbandaged  wounds. 

Punctured  wounds  should  always  be  exam- 
ined minutely  for  foreign  bodies  and  then 
treated  as  above.  In  cases  where  the  wound 
has  a  ragged  edge  it  may  not  be  possible  to 
put  in  stitches,  and  there  may  arise  wounds  that 
can  neither  be  stitched  nor  bandaged.  In  such 
cases  the  openings  must  be  bathed  with  the  bo- 
racic  acid  lotion  several  times  a  day.  It  is  im- 
possible to  emphasize  too  strongly  the  impor- 
tance of  removing  any  foreign  body  from  a 
wound,  for  if  such  be  left  in  it  may  cause  blood- 
poisoning  and  death. 


THE  BENCH  SHOW 


CHAPTER  VII 

THE  BENCH  SHOW 

PREPARING  hounds  for  the  bench  show 
requires  a  lot  of  work  and  patience  on 
the  part  of  the  handler  and  a  hound  with 
good,  amiable  disposition  that  does  not  object 
to  handling.  The  first  thing  to  be  done  by 
the  exhibitor  is  to  thoroughly  familiarize  him- 
self with  the  scale  of  points  by  which  hounds 
are  judged.  I  was  chairman  of  the  committee 
that  formulated  this  standard,  which  has  been 
universally  adopted  by  all  the  foxhunting  asso- 
ciations. (It  will  be  found  elsewhere  in  this 
book.) 

The  hound,  being  a  sporting  dog,  condition 
is  everything  for  exhibition  purposes,  as  excel- 
lence in  symmetry  and  formation  will  be  lost 
on  the  judge  if  condition  is  bad.  A  hound  is 
judged  on  his  apparent  fitness  to  do  his  duty, 
and  if  loaded  with  flesh  instead  of  muscle  will 
surely  be  set  back  by  the  judge  if  he  understands 
113 


114  THE  FOXHOUND 

his  business.  I  have  when  judging  them  given 
many  a  hound  "  the  gate  "  for  this  reason. 

Instructions  for  training  should  be  followed 
as  nearly  as  possible,  but  as  there  are  many 
who  probably  have  not  such  facilities,  to  them 
I  say:  Give  all  the  exercise  you  possibly  can, 
have  hound  follow  you  as  much  as  possible. 
Rub,  knead,  and  roll  all  his  muscles  a  half-hour 
at  a  time,  and  not  less  than  three  times  a  day. 
Brush  briskly  with  a  stiff  brush,  and  rub  off 
with  soft  chamois  skin.  Clean  his  teeth  thor- 
oughly, removing  all  discolorations.  Give  sev- 
eral good  dressings  to  his  coat,  with  two  ounces 
oil  of  tar,  one-half  pound  sulphur  in  quart  of 
fish  oil,  followed  by  bath  next  day  in  tepid 
water,  using  yolks  of  eggs  or  milk  or  soap. 
Feed  as  many  eggs  as  his  stomach  will  stand 
without  becoming  bilious  and  let  him  lap  a  pint 
of  milk  daily. 

Teach  him  to  lead  kindly  with  the  chain  and 
to  stand  perfectly  still,  with  head  and  neck  ex- 
tended, feet  and  legs  straight  and  well  under 
him;  to  trot  after  his  leader  and  to  carry  a  gay 
stern.  Do  not  feed  for  twenty-four  hours  pre- 
vious to  judging.  A  few  minutes  before  tak- 
ing into  the  judging  ring,  however,  give  a  small 
piece  of  raw  beef,  say  about  the  size  of  two 
fingers. 


THE  BENCH  SHOW        115 

In  the  ring  carry  a  small  piece  of  fresh  meat 
concealed  in  your  hand  and  let  him  smell  it 
occasionally;  this  will  inject  considerable  life 
and  animation  into  him  that  otherwise  might 
be  lacking.  While  in  the  ring  do  not  crowd 
your  dog  up  close  to  the  judge,  but  get  as  far 
away  as  the  ring  will  permit.  If  he  is  a  good 
one,  the  judge  will  never  overlook  him.  If  the 
sawdust  in  the  ring  is  deep,  clean  a  space  that 
his  feet  and  toes  may  be  seen.  If  you  do  not 
succeed  in  getting  his  muscles  hard  and  firm, 
stomach  off,  and  body  devoid  of  surplus  flesh, 
forfeit  your  entrance  money  and  keep  him  at 
home. 

When  showing  on  the  bench,  ascertain  the 
location  of  the  nearest  vacant  lot  or  park  to 
the  exhibition  building,  and  give  him  a  good 
long  romp  of  not  less  than  an  hour  daily.  If 
accustomed  to  the  "  patent  biscuits "  usually 
fed  at  the  bench  shows  feed  on  lean  beef  or 
mutton.  If  these  instructions  are  carried  out 
faithfully  the  condition  of  your  dog  will  remain 
good  for  several  weeks;  otherwise  the  close  of 
the  first  circuit  will  find  him  a  physical  wreck. 
When  at  home  between  dates  of  shows,  keep  up 
his  work,  even  if  it  be  only  for  a  few  days. 
Accustom  him  to  strangers  and  strange  sights 
and  by  the  time  you  have  him  in  fit  condition  to 


116  THE  FOXHOUND 

win  you  will   doubtless  have   ruined   a   good 
hound  for  field  work. 

Individual  hounds  should  be  taken  or  sent  to 
a  bench  show  in  a  crate.  This  should  have  solid 
bottoms  and  ends,  with  hinged  door.  The  sides 
and  top  should  be  slatted  with  good  spaces  be- 
tween, as  many  dogs  en-route  to  the  shows  are 
annually  smothered  in  hot  express  cars  by  hav- 
ing merchandise  thrown  upon  and  around  the 
crate.  The  sides  should  be  solid  for  a  space 
of  six  inches  at  the  bottom  to  prevent  the  straw 
from  falling  out.  Never  send  hounds  without 
a  handler.  The  fair  promises  of  the  manage- 
ment to  have  your  entries  properly  cared  for 
and  exhibited  are  forgotten  as  soon  as  the  many 
duties  of  the  show  devolve  upon  them,  and  they 
are  lucky  indeed  if  they  are  taken  from  the 
bench  except  while  in  the  show  ring. 


DONT'S 


CHAPTER   VIII 
DONT'S 

WHILE  many  of  these  are  a  repetition, 
appearing  in  a  different  form  else- 
where in  this  book,  they  are  collected 
here  for  frequent  and  careful  reading  and  if 
adhered  to  will  prove  most  invaluable  in  the 
conduct  of  a  successful  pack  and  kennel. 

Don't  breed  a  valuable  stud  dog  several 
times  in  one  season.  One  service  is  just  as 
good,  if  not  better,  than  half  a  dozen  if  given 
at  the  right  time. 

Don't  prevent  a  bitch  that  is  in  whelp  from 
eating  whatever  she  pleases,  though  if  you  find 
she  has  a  penchant  for  filthy  matter,  carrion, 
and  other  flotsam  and  jetsam,  let  her  have  her 
way  or,  better,  give  her  sulphur  in  her  food. 

Don't  keep  your  bitches  in  whelp  chained  up 

or    kenneled    continually;    they    should    have 

especially  the  last  three  weeks  before  whelping. 

plenty  of  gentle  walking  exercise  every  day, 

119 


120  THE  FOXHOUND 

Don't  neglect  to  feed  your  brood  bitches 
with  every  food  that  will  strengthen  and  stim- 
ulate the  mother  in  the  trying  periods  of  preg- 
nancy and  while  suckling  pups.  Precipitated 
phosphate  of  lime  should  be  given  to  the  bitch 
in  her  food  during  the  last  weeks  of  preg- 
nancy and  after  whelping,  and  then  to  the 
puppies  until  two  or  three  months  old.  Half 
a  teaspoonful  daily  to  a  pup  is  sufficient. 

Don't,  if  you  can  avoid  it,  keep  your  bitches 
in  whelp  in  kennels  or  yards  where  they  must 
continually  jump  up  on  their  hind  legs  in  order 
to  look  upon  the  outer  world.  Have  open 
wire  or  slats  for  fencing  and  divisions. 

Don't  feed  cornmeal  alone  day  in  and  day 
out,  as  many  kennelmen  unfortunately  do.  It 
is  handy  to  cook  and  cheap,  -but  its  constant  use 
heats  the  blood,  lowers  the  system,  and  eczema 
and  mange  too  often  follow  as  a  natural  con- 
sequence. Never  feed  it  alone  in  hot  weather. 

Don't  allow  your  very  young  puppies  to  run 
with  your  old  dogs.  Besides  the  danger  from 
injury  in  romping  with  heavier  dogs,  there  is 
also  a  danger  of  the  older  dogs  snapping  at 
the  youngsters  and  giving  them  a  nip  that  will 
disfigure  them. 

Don't  feed  liver  and  lights  to  your  dogs  ex- 
cept occasionally  if  you  value  their  health, 


DONT'S  121 

Such  stuff  may  fill  an  aching  void  for  the  time 
being,  but  there  is  no  flesh  producing  substance 
in  it.  The  liver  will  disarrange  the  internals 
and  you  may  as  well  feed  so  much  sponge  as 
the  leathery,  indigestible  lights. 

Don't  forget  the  bones.  Dogs  kept  in  ken- 
nels have  not,  as  a  rule,  a  very  merry  time  of 
it  at  best,  and  a  good  big  knuckle  bone  will 
serve  to  while  away  an  odd  hour  or  two,  be- 
sides cleaning  the  teeth  and  inducing  a  healthy 
flow  of  saliva.  But  use  discretion,  avoiding 
chicken  and  small  bones. 

Don't  throw  in  one  bone  for  two  dogs. 
Reason  obvious.  Neither  give  a  bone  to  bitches 
suckling  or  running  with  puppies.  The  mater- 
nal instinct  is  strong,  but  the  mother  while 
gnawing  the  bone  is  not  to  be  depended  on 
and  may  give  a  too  venturesome  and  confiding 
puppy  an  ugly  bite. 

Don't  neglect  ventilation  in  the  kennels. 
Arrange  this  so  that  there  is  no  direct  draught 
on  the  dogs.  A  good  plan  is  to  have  an  open- 
ing under  the  eaves  of  the  kennel  and  inside 
nail  a  board  the  size  of  the  aperture  but  slant- 
ing inwards  at  an  angle  of  forty-five  degrees, 
so  the  air  is  directed  to  the  top  of  the  kennel 
first. 

Don't  feed  raw  meat  to  a  dog  suffering 


122  THE  FOXHOUND 

from  diarrhea.  Feed  starchy  foods  and  rice 
water.  A  good  stiff  gruel  of  Hour  and  water 
will  stop  the  complaint  in  its  early  stages. 

Don't  allow  the  kennel  yards  to  become  lit- 
tered with  manure.  Besides  being  unhealthy 
and  a  source  of  worms,  the  manure  is  a  salable 
commodity  and  should  be  regularly  taken  up, 
dried,  and  sold  to  the  morocco  leather  dress- 
ers. The  bones  that  accumulate  around  a  ken- 
nel can  also  be  disposed  of.  All  these  little 
things  count  in  the  conduct  of  a  large  kennel. 

Don't  feed  scraps  from  the  table  without 
carefully  looking  them  over  before  doing  so. 
In  the  dog's  eagerness  after  dainties  he  may 
swallow  a  hidden  fish  bone,  chicken  bone, 
splinter,  or  other  pointed  substance  that  may 
cause  trouble  afterward. 

Don't  feed  highly  seasoned  messes  that 
come  from  the  table  just  because  they  arc 
handy  and  the  dog  will  eat  them.  It  will  cost 
you  less  in  the  long  run  to  feed  sound,  whole- 
some dog  food. 

Don't  use  the  whip  for  every  mistake  your 
dog  makes.  Dogs  are  not  like  lions  in  a  cage 
to  be  subdued  by  a  show  of  force.  Talk  to 
the  dog  and  prove  to  him  by  action  and  expres- 
sion that  he  has  done  wrong.  A  dog  follows 
his  master's  expression  more  than  the  lash. 


DONT'S  123 

Don't  lose  your  temper  and  kick  a  dog. 

Don't  enter  a  kennel  without  speaking  to 
the  dogs,  and  especially  so  at  night  or  in  the 
dark.  The  magic  power  of  the  voice  may  save 
you  from  a  bite. 

Don't  run  your  dogs  after  a  meal,  nor  yet 
just  before  it.  How  would  you  like  to  run  half 
a  mile  after  a  good  meal? 

Don't  think  because  you  know  what  you  wish 
your  dog  to  do  that  he  can  grasp  your  mean- 
ing offhand  and  without  effort  on  your  part; 
dogs  are  intelligent,  but  they  are  not  mind- 
readers. 

Don't  wash  puppies  when  they  are  very 
young,  unless  they  happen  to  get  into  some  filth 
that  cannot  be  removed  when  dry  by  the  brush. 

Don't  wash  puppies  until  at  least  six  months 
old.  Grooming  and  "  elbow  grease "  every 
day  will  improve  the  coat  and  do  more  good 
than  washing. 

Don't  let  your  pups  or  pup  get  into  the  habit 
of  barking  violently,  a  most  tiresome  trick, 
caused  by  idleness  and  not  enough  outdoor 
exercise,  and  frequently  hereditary. 

Don't  administer  liquids  to  dogs  while  the 
mouth  is  open.  Close  the  mouth  tightly,  hold 
the  hand  over  his  nose  and  lower  jaw,  and  by 
making  a  funnel  of  the  inside  lips,  keep  the 


124  THE  FOXHOUND 

head  erect  and  pour  the  liquid  through  the 
teeth. 

Don't  give  pills  in  a  careless  manner.  If 
you  do,  the  dog  will  slip  it  under  his  tongue 
and  spit  it  out  when  you  are  not  watching. 
Drop  the  pill  as  far  behind  the  tongue  as  pos- 
sible. With  two  fingers  push  it  farther  back. 
In  his  efforts  to  expel  it,  it  will  slip  down  the 
throat. 

Don't  fail  to  give  your  dog  plenty  of  good, 
healthy  exercise  every  day.  Lack  of  it  will 
invariably  cause  indigestion,  constipation,  and 
various  other  complaints  that  can  easily  be 
avoided  by  carefully  observing  this  precaution. 

Don't  deprive  a  sick  dog  of  anything  that  he 
will  eat.  In  many  cases  it  is  necessary  to  tempt 
him  to  eat  so  as  to  preserve  his  strength. 
Afterwards  you  can  gradually  change  the  diet 
to  food  that  will  prove  more  suitable  for  him. 

Don't  overlook  the  fact  that  a  thorough  dis- 
infection of  a  kennel  is  absolutely  essential  to 
insure  perfect  health  among  dogs. 

Frequently  whitewashing  of  woodwork  de- 
stroys offensive  odors,  insects,  and  vermin. 
The  ground  around  the  Kennel  should  be  swept 
every  day  or  so  and  once  a  week  sprinkled 
with  a  solution  of  crude  carbolic  acid  and 
water, 


APPENDIX 


GLOSSARY    OF   TECHNICAL   TERMS, 
AS  APPLIED  TO  THE  HOUND 

APPLE-HEADED.  Skull  round  instead  of  flat 
on  top. 

BEEFY.     Big,  beefy  hindquarters. 

BLAZE.    A  white  mark  up  the  face. 

BRUSH.    The  hair  on  tail  of  a  hound. 

CAT-FOOT.  A  short,  round  foot,  with  the 
knuckles  high  and  well  developed;  like  a  cat's, 
short,  round,  and  compact. 

CHAPS  or  CHOPS.    The  pendulous  lips. 

CHARACTER.  The  combination  of  points 
contributing  to  the  whole  make-up  and  giving 
to  a  hound  that  which  is  desired  in  his  par- 
ticular variety. 

CLODDY  or  COBBY.  Thick-set,  short-coupled, 
and  low  in  stature. 

COUPLINGS.  The  length  or  space  between 
the  tops  of  the  shoulder-blades  and  tops  of  the 
hip-joints,  or  buckle-bones.  A  hound  is  accord- 
ingly spoken  of  as  long  or  short  "  in  the  coup- 
lings." 

127 


128  THE  FOXHOUND 

COW-HOCKED.  The  hocks  turning  inward; 
hocks  that  turn  in,  like  those  of  a  cow. 

DEEP  IN  BRISKET.  Deep  in  chest;  deep 
from  withers  to  point  where  chest  and  brisket 
meet. 

DEW-CLAWS.  The  extra  claws  found  occa- 
sionally on  the  legs  or  superfluous  claw  inside 
the  hind  leg  just  above  the  foot. 

DISH-FACE.  This  term  describes  hound 
whose  nasal  bone  is  higher  at  the  nose  than 
at  the  top. 

DOMED  SKULL.     Round  skull. 

FLAT-SIDED.  Flat  in  ribs;  opposite  of  well- 
ribbed  up. 

FLEWS.  The  chops,  or  overhanging  lips  of 
the  upper  jaw.  The  term  is  chiefly  applied  to 
hounds  or  other  deep-mouthed  dogs.  The 
lips. 

HARE-FOOT.  Foot  like  that  of  a  hare,  long 
and  narrow. 

HAW.  The  red  inside  eyelid,  usually  hid- 
den; the  red  membrane  inside  the  lower  eye- 
lid. 

SHELLY.    Too  narrow  and  light  in  body. 

SICKLE-TAIL.  A  tail  forming  a  semi-circle, 
like  a  sickle. 

SNIPY.    Too  pointed  in  muzzle. 

SORRY.    Worthless. 


GLOSSARY  129 

SPLAY  FOOT.  A  flat,  awkward  foot,  usually 
turned  outward;  the  opposite  of  "cat-foot." 

STERN.    The  tail. 

STOP.  The  indentation  across  the  skull  be- 
tween the  forehead  and  nose. 

STYLE.     Showy,  spirited,  or  gay  demeanor. 

THROATINESS.  Overmuch  loose  skin  or 
flesh  under  throat. 

TIMBER.    Bone. 

TRICOLOR.     Black,  tan,  and  white. 

TUCKED-UP.  Tucked-up  loin,  as  in  the 
Greyhound. 

WALL-EYE.    A  blue  mottled  eye. 

WRINKLE.  Loose-folding  skin  over  the 
skull. 


FOXHOUND   FIELD   TRIAL 

•RUNNING   RULES   AND   REGULATIONS 

'National  Foxhunters'  Association 

Revised  November,  1902,  by  W.  S.  Walker, 
Leland  Hathaway  and  Roger  Williams,  Com- 
mittee, and  since  amended. 

The  stakes  and  the  order  of  their  running 
shall  be  as  follows: 

The  Derby  Stake,  for  hounds  under  18 
months  of  age. 

The  entrance  fee  to  the  Derby  Stake  to  be 
'$3.00.  All-Age  Stake,  $4.00;  the  All-Age 
Stake  to  be  divided  into  three  classes,  as  fol- 
lows: Speed  and  driving,  hunting  and  trail- 
ing, and  endurance.  First,  second,  third  prizes 
to  be  awarded  in  each  class,  and  letters  of  com- 
mendation in  the  discretion  of  the  judges. 
But  in  the  Derby  only  first,  second,  third  and 
letters  of  commendation. 

Upon  the  winner  of  the  highest  general  aver- 
se 


FOXHOUND   FIELD    TRIAL     131 

age  in  the  three  classes  of  the  Champion  Stake 
will  be  conferred  the  title  of  champion. 

Rule  i. — No  nominations  can  be  taken  or 
entries  made  except  by  or  through  a  subscriber, 
who  shall  be  a  member  of  the  Club,  and 
thereby  becomes  responsible  for  said  entry. 

Rule  2. — The  entrance  money  must  in  all 
cases  accompany  the  nomination.  No  entry 
shall  be  valid  until  fee  is  paid  in  full. 

Rule  3. — The  number  of  entries  from  any 
one  kennel  or  pack  shall  be  limited  to  four. 
The  age  of  a  dog  shall  be  calculated  up  to  and 
inclusive  of  the  first  day  of  the  hunt. 

Rule  4  (A). — Subscribers  must  file  with  the 
secretary  the  names  of  hounds  they  intend 
starting  on  or  before  12  o'clock  M.  of  the  day 
preceding  the  trial.  Every  hound  entered  at 
any  trial  held  under  these  rules  must  be  the 
bona  fide  property  of  the  person  making  such 
entry.  The  entries  must  clearly  identify  the 
dog  by  name,  and  if  known,  its  date  of  birth, 
name  of  its  sire  and  dam,  and  the  name  of  its 
breeder;  should  any  of  these  particulars  be  un- 
known to  the  subscriber,  it  must  be  so  stated 
on  the  entry  blank.  Every  hound  entered  must 
be  registered  or  listed  in  the  N.  F.  H.  Associa- 
tion Stud  Book,  and  the  penalty  for  non-regis- 
tration or  listing  is  disqualification  and  the  for- 


132  THE  FOXHOUND 

feiture  of  entry  fee  and  prizes  won.  Any  sub- 
scriber taking  an  entry  in  a  stake  and  not  pre- 
fixing the  word  "  names  "  to  a  hound  which  is 
not  his  own  property,  shall  forfeit  the  hound's 
chance  of  the  stake.  He  shall  also  deliver  in 
writing  to  the  secretary  the  name  of  the  bona 
fide  owner  of  the  hound  named  by  him. 

B.  (i) — A  hound  to  be  eligible  to  registra- 
tion must  have  a  full  pedigree  for  three  gener- 
ations, or  in  the  absence  of  such  pedigree  must 
have  been  a  first-prize  winner  at  a  foxhound 
field  trial  recognized  by  the  National  Foxhunt- 
ers'  Association.  If  less  than  three  generations 
only  can  be  given,  a  hound  can  be  "  listed  "  in 
the  Stud  Book  upon  payment  of  25  cents,  and  a 
certificate  of  same  will  be  issued.  Such  listings 
will  be  published  in  the  Stud  Book. 

(2) — No  change  in  a  hound's  name  shall  be 
permitted  after  it  has  been  published  in  the 
Stud  Book. 

(3) — A  hound  may  be  re-registered  upon 
change  of  ownership,  but  a  new  number  shall 
not  be  given. 

(4) — The  breeder  of  a  hound  is  the  indi- 
vidual or  partnership  owning  or  leasing  the 
dam  at  the  time  of  her  being  bred. 

Rule  4. — If  any  subscriber  should  enter  a 
hound  by  a  different  name  from  that  in  which 


FOXHOUND   FIELD    TRIAL     133 

it  has  last  run  in  public,  without  also  adding 
the  late  name  of  the  hound,  said  hound  shall 
be  disqualified.  A  castrated  dog  or  spayed 
bitch  shall  be  barred.  Any  such  running  shall 
forfeit  any  and  all  prizes  won. 

Rule  6. — Objections  or  protests  to  any 
hound  must  be  made  in  writing  to  the  directors 
and  accompanied  by  a  deposit  of  $10,  which 
shall  be  forfeited  if  the  objection  is  not  sus- 
tained by  the  directors;  should  an  objection  be 
made  which  cannot  at  the  time  be  substantiated 
or  disproved,  the  hound  may  be  allowed  to  run 
under  the  protest,  the  Club  retaining  his  win- 
nings until  the  objection  is  either  withdrawn  or 
decided.  Should  he  be  disqualified,  the  other* 
shall  be  placed  the  same  as  if  he  had  not  been 
in  the  stake. 

Rule  7. — The  directors  may  refuse  any  entry 
they  may  think  proper  to  exclude ;  and  no  person 
who  has  misconducted  himself  in  any  manner 
in  connection  with  the  N.  F.  H.  A.  shall  be 
allowed  to  compete  in  any  trials  that  may  be 
held  under  the  auspices  of  this  Club. 

Rule  8. — No  entry  can  be  withdrawn  with- 
out the  consent  of  the  directors.  Parties  so 
offending  may  be  debarred  at  future  trials 
or  penalized,  at  the  discretion  of  the  di- 
rectors. 


134  THE  FOXHOUND 

Rule  9. — Any  owner,  his  handler,  or  his 
deputy  may  hunt  a  hound,  but  it  must  be  one 
or  the  other.  When  the  owner  has  deputed 
another  person  to  handle  for  him  he  must  not 
interfere  in  any  manner,  nor  will  he  be  allowed 
to  ride  to  hounds. 

Rule  10. — Riders  to  hounds  shall  be  limited 
to  the  handlers  with  entries  in  that  particular 
hunt,  the  judges,  the  M.  F.  H.,  flag  steward, 
and  members  of  the  press  who  obtain  such  per- 
mission from  the  directors. 

Rule  ii. — The  M.  F.  H.  shall  give  the  han- 
dlers any  information  they  need  as  to  direc- 
tion to  enable  them  to  keep  within  reasonable 
distance  of  the  hounds.  He  shall  instruct  han- 
dlers and  outsiders  not  to  converse  with,  or  in 
the  hearing  of  the  judges,  about  the  work  done 
or  merits  or  demerits  of  any  of  the  competing 
hounds.  It  shall  be  his  duty  to  report  any  and 
all  infringements  of  this  rule  to  the  directors. 
The  offender  shall  be  subject  to  a  fine  or  expul- 
sion from  the  grounds  at  the  discretion  of  the 
directors.  He  shall  ride  to  the  hounds,  and 
shall  direct  the  handlers  and  assist  the  judges 
in  every  proper  way  possible.  It  shall  be  his 
duty  to  notify,  by  conspicuously  posting  in 
camp  the  night  before,  the  hour  and  place  of 
starting  on  the  following  day.  He  shall  also 


FOXHOUND   FIELD   TRIAL     135 

call  the  hunt  off.  He  shall  carefully  examine 
all  hounds  entered,  and  if  any  are  affected  with 
contagious  diseases  or  any  bitches  in  season  he 
shall  promptly  report  same  in  writing  to  the 
directors,  who  shall  officially  notify  owners  or 
nominators  and  bar  same  from  the  trial.  He 
shall  designate  by  what  marking,  device  or 
colors  each  entry  shall  be  marked  to  aid  the 
judges  in  disinguishing  them,  and  no  dog  shall 
be  marked  otherwise  than  as  he  directs.  He 
shall  furnish  the  judges  each  day  with  a  list  of 
the  dogs  running,  and  distinctive  markings. 

Rule  12. — The  field  stewards,  where  practi- 
cable, should  be  sworn  in  as  deputy  sheriffs. 
They  shall  be  held  responsible  for  the  proper 
conduct  and  behavior  of  spectators  and  partici- 
pants, and  will  see  that  spectators  are  kept  at 
a  proper  distance  from  and  do  not  interfere 
with  the  hounds  participating.  They  shall  also 
see  that  there  is  no  destruction  of  property. 
They  shall  report  to  the  directors  or  M.  F.  H. 
throughout  the  day  for  instructions. 

Rule  13. — The  flag  steward  shall,  if  possi- 
ble, keep  both  hounds  and  spectators  in  view, 
and  by  a  series  of  flag  signals  notify  the  field 
stewards  of  the  general  direction  of  the 
hounds.  He  shall  act  as  assistant  to  M.  F.  H, 
in  directing  and  calling  off  the  hounds. 


136  THE  FOXHOUND 

Rule  14. — There  shall  not  be  less  than  three 
or  more  than  five  judges.  They  must  not  be 
interested  directly  or  indirectly  in  any  of  the 
hounds,  and  must  be  hunters  of  large  foxhunt- 
ing experience,  and  capable  of  closely  follow- 
ing the  hounds.  They  shall  be  subject  to  the 
general  rules  of  the  Club  and  report  for  duty 
each  day  to  the  directors.  They  shall  have  the 
fullest  discretion,  consistent  with  the  rules,  in 
determining  the  merits  of  the  hounds,  and  in 
the  field  shall  have  the  ordering  off  of  the 
hunt.  Should  an  appointed  judge  be  unable 
to  fulfill  his  engagement  or  become  disabled, 
the  directors  shall  have  the  power  to  fill  the 
yacancy,  or  not,  in  such  manner  as  they 
see  fit. 

Rule  15. — Judges  are  requested  to  select  a 
reserve  award,  in  case  one  of  the  winners 
should  be  disqualified,  that  the  prize  may  not 
fail  of  being  awarded.  The  judges  shall  con- 
tinue the  running  during  the  day  and  from  day 
to  day  until  a  majority  of  them  are  satisfied. 
Rule  1 6. — Their  final  decisions  shall  be  ren- 
dered in  writing  to  the  directors;  they  cannot 
recall  or  reverse  them  on  any  pretext  whatever 
after  being  so  given.  If  any  person  openly  im- 
pugns the  decision  or  action  of  a  judge  on  the 
grounds  or  in  the  camp,  he  may  be  fined  in 


FOXHOUND   FIELD    TRIAL     137 

the  discretion  of  the  directors  not  more  than 
$25  or  less  than  $5. 

Rule  17. — No  person  shall  attempt  to  influ- 
ence a  judge's  decision  either  before,  during, 
or  after  a  race.  If  a  party  so  offending  is  a 
member,  he  shall  be  expelled  from  the  Club;  if 
otherwise,  he  shall  be  fined  and  sent  from  the 
meeting. 

Rule  1 8. — The  handler  hunting  a  dog  may 
speak  to  and  urge  him  on  in  a  proper  manner, 
but  he  shall  be  cautioned  twice  by  the  judges 
or  M.  F.  H.  for  making  unnecesary  noise  or 
disorderly  conduct,  and  if  after  such  a  caution 
he  continues  to  so  offend,  he  may  be  ordered 
from  the  field.  Should  a  handler  ride  over  or 
purposely  interfere  with  an  opponent's  hound, 
the  owner  of  the  hound  so  ridden  over  or  inter- 
fered with  shall  have  the  privilege  of  saying 
which  one  of  the  offender's  entries  shall  be 
barred,  or  shall  have  the  option  of  selecting  at 
the  end  of  that  particular  hunt  one  of  the  of- 
fender's hounds,  which  will  remain  in  the  stake, 
and  he  shall  be  entitled  to  claim  one-half  of 
said  hound's  winnings,  if  any. 

Rule  19. — A  hound  that  fails  by  action  or 
note  to  work  fairly  on  a  trail,  and  runs  "  cun- 
ning "  to  get  an  advantage,  shall  be  discounted 
in  the  discretion  of  the  judges. 


188  THE  FOXHOUND 

Rule  20. — A  hound  left  on  "  a  jump  "  or 
thrown  out  "  on  a  loss  taken  off,"  shall  not  be 
penalized  if  it  works  diligently  to  "get  in'* 
and  succeeds  in  a  reasonable  time. 

Rule  21. — A  hound  "thrown  out"  and 
"  coming  in  "  and  refusing  to  hunt  or  "  go  in  " 
to  others  in  full  cry,  shall  be  marked  and 
barred. 

Rule  22. — Should  the  pack  become  sepa- 
rated the  judges  must  divide  and  carefully  note 
the  work  of  each  pack,  and  immediately  upon 
re-assembling  individually  report  work  noted. 

Rule  23. — A  hound  lost  during  a  run  and 
not  returning  until  the  trials  are  partly  or 
wholly  finished,  shall  be  given  credit,  provided 
the  judges  are  satisfied  that  he  has  been  run- 
ning. Testimony  of  interested  parties  not  to 
be  taken  on  this  point. 

Rule  24. — Any  person  allowing  a  hound 
to  get  loose  and  join  in  the  chase  shall  be  fined 
not  less  than  $5.  If  the  loose  hound  belongs 
to  an  owner  of  one  engaged  in  that  particular 
chase,  such  owner  shall  be  fined  in  the  discre- 
tion of  the  directors,  unless  he  can  prove  to 
the  satisfaction  of  the  directors  that  he  had 
not  been  able  to  take  up  his  hound  after  finish- 
ing his  last  chase.  The  fact,  however,  of  other 


FOXHOUND   FIELD   TRIAL     139 

hounds  joining  in  shall  not  necessarily  end  the 
chase. 

Rule  25. — No  hound  shall  be  eligible  to  com- 
pete in  trials  that  has  been  hunted  upon  the 
grounds  where  the  trials  are  to  be  held  within 
six  months  preceding  the  date  of  the  trials. 

Rule  26. — The  entries  in  a  stake  shall  be 
numbered  and  divided  into  packs,  in  the  discre- 
tion of  the  directors;  said  division  shall  be 
made  by  drawing  lots  under  supervision  of  the 
judges.  When  possible,  a  kennel  or  owner 
should  not  have  more  than  one  hound  in  each 
pack.  After  the  first  round  the  judges  will 
order  such  hounds  as  they  elect  to  run  in  the 
following  rounds.  In  the  general  average  the 
judges  shall  make  their  decision  upon  the  uni- 
form principle  that  the  hound  showing  the  most 
aptitude  and  ability  to  find,  trail  and  catch  a 
fox  is  the  winner.  The  principle  is  to  be  car- 
ried out  by  estimating  the  work  done  upon  the 
following  scale  of  points: 

I — Speed  and  Driving '50 

2 — Speed  and  Driving 35 

3 — Speed  and  Driving 15 

I — Hunting  and  Trailing 50 


140  THE  FOXHOUND 

2 — Hunting  and  Trailing 35 

3 — Hunting  and  Trailing 15 

i — Endurance 50 

2 — Endurance 35 

3 — Endurance 1 


THE  END 


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4.  APPLE  GROWING,  by  M.  C.  Burritt. 
The  various  problems  confronting  the  apple  grower, 
from  the  preparation  of  the  soil  and  the  planting  of  the 
trees  to  the  marketing  of  the  fruit,  are  discussed  in  de- 
tail by  the  author. 

5.  THE  AIREDALE,  by  Williams  Haynes. 
The  book  opens  with  a  short  chapter  on  the  origin  and 
development  of  the  Airedale,  as  a  distinctive   breed. 
The  author  then  takes  up  the  problems  of  type  as 
bearing  on  the  selection  of  the  dog,  breeding,  training 
and  use.    The  book  is  designed  for  the  non-profes- 
sional dog  fancier,  who  wishes  common  sense  advice 
which  does  not  involve  elaborate  preparations  or  ex- 
penditure.   Chapters  are  included  on  the  care  of  the 
dog  in  the  kennel  and  simple  remedies  for  ordinary 
diseases. 


OUTINGf  PUBLI8BING  COM PANT  -*  2fEW  YORK 

6.  THE  AUTOMOBILE— Its   Selection, 
Care  and  Use,  by  Robert  Sloss.     This   is   a   plain, 
practical  discussion  of  the  things  that  every  man  needs 
to  know  if  he  is  to  buy  the  right  car  and  get  the  most 
out  of  it.    The  various  details  of  operation  and  care 
are  given  in  simple,  intelligent  terms.    From  it  the 
car  owner  can  easily  learn  the  mechanism  of  his  motor 
and  the  art  of  locating  motor  trouble,  as  well  as  how  to 
use  his  car  for  the  greatest  pleasure. 

7.  FISHING  KITS  AND  EQUIPMENT, 
by  Samuel  G.  Camp.    A  complete  guide  to  the  ang- 
ler buying  a  new  outfit.    Every  detail  of  the  fishing  kit 
of  the  freshwater  angler  is  described,  from  rodtip  to 
creel,  and  clothing.    Special  emphasis  is  laid  on  out- 
fitting for  fly  fishing,  but  full  instruction  is  also  given 
to  the  man  who  wants  to  catch  pickerel,  pike,  muskel- 
lunge,   lake-trout,   bass   and    other  freshwater   game 
fishes.    The  approved  method  of  selecting  and  testing 
the  various  rods,  lines,  leaders,  etc.,  is  described. 

8.  THE  FINE  ART   OF  FISHING,  by 
Samuel  G.  Camp.    Combine  the  pleasure  of  catching 
fish  with  the  gratification  of  following  the  sport  in  the 
most  approved  manner.    The  suggestions  offered  are 
helpful  to  beginner  and  expert  anglers.    The  range  of 
fish  and  fishing  conditions  covered  is  wide  and  includes 
such  subjects  as  "Casting  Fine  and  Far  Off,"  "Strip- 
Casting  tor  Bass,"  "Fishing  for  Mountain  Trout"  and 
"Autumn  Fishing  for  Lake  Trout."    The  book  is  per- 
vaded with  a  spirit  of  love  for  the  streamside  and  the 
out-doors  generally  which  the  genuine  angler  will  ap- 
preciate.   A   companion   book   to   "Fishing   Kits   and 
Equipment." 

9.  THE  HORSE— Its  Breeding,  Care  and 
Use,  by  David  Buffum.     Mr.  Buffum  takes  up  the 
common,  every-day  problems  of  the  ordinary  horse- 
users,  such  as  feeding,  shoeing,  simple  home  remedies, 
breaking  and  the  cure  for  various   equine  vices.    An 
important  chapter  is  that  tracing  the  influx  of  Arabian 
blood  into  the  English  and  American  horses  and  its 
value  and  limitations.    A  distinctly  sensible  book  for  the 
sensible  man  who  wishes  to  know  how  he  can  improve 
his  horses  and  his  horsemanship  at  the  same  time. 

19 


OUTING  PUBLISHING  COMPANY  — NEW  TORE 

10.  THE  MOTOR  BOAT— Its   Selection, 
Care  and  Use,  by  H.  W.  Slauson.    The     intending 
purchaser  is  advised  as  to  the  type  of  motor  boat  best 
suited  to  his  particular  needs  and  how  to  keep  it  in  run- 
ning condition  after  purchased. 

11.  OUTDOOR  SIGNALLING,  by  Elbert 
Wells.      Mr.  Wells  has  perfected  a  method  of  signall- 
ing by  means  of  wigwag,  light,  smoke,  or  whistle  which 
is  as  simple  as  it  is  effective.    The  fundamental  prin- 
ciple can  be  learned  in  ten  minutes  and  its  application 
is  far  easier  than  that  of  any  other  code  now  in  use. 

12.  TRACKS  AND  TRACKING,  by  Josef 
Brunner.     After  twenty  years  of  patient  study  and 
practical  experience,  Mr.  Brunner  can,  from  his  intimate 
knowledge,    speak    with    authority    on    this    subject. 
"Tracks  and  Tracking"  shows   how  to  follow  intelli- 
gently even  the  most  intricate  animal  or  bird  tracks; 
how  to  interpret  tracks  of  wild  game  and  decipher  the 
many  tell-tale  signs  of  the  chase  that  would  otherwise 
pass  unnoticed;  to  tell  from  the  footprints  the  name, 
sex,  speed,  direction,  whether  and  how  wounded,  and 
many  other  things  about  wild  animals  and  birds. 

13.  WING  AND  TRAP-SHOOTING,  by 
Charles  Askins.    Contains  a  full  discussion  of  the  var- 
ious methods,  such  as  snap-shooting,  swing  and  half- 
swing,  discusses  the  flight  of  birds  with  reference  to 
the  gunner's  problem  of  lead  and  range  and  makes 
special  application  of  the  various  points  to  the  different 
birds  commonly  shot  in  this  country.    A  chapter  is  in- 
cluded on  trap  shooting  and  the  book  closes  with  a 
forceful  and  common-sense  presentation  of  the  etiquette 
of  the  field. 

14.  PROFITABLE  BREEDS  OF  POUL- 
TRY, by  Arthur  S.  Wheeler.       Mr.   Wheeler  dis-^ 
cusses  from  personal  experience  the  best-known  general 
purpose  breeds.     Advice  is  given  from  the  standpoint  of 
the  man  who  desires  results  in  eggs  and  stock  rather 
than  in  specimens  for  exhibition.    In  addition  to  a  care- 
ful analysis  of  stock — good  and  bad — and  some  conclu- 
sions regarding  housing  and  management,  the  author 
writes  in  detail  regarding  Plymouth  Rocks,  Wyandottes, 
Orpingtons,  Rhode  Island  Reds,  etc. 

20 


OUTING  PUBLISHING  CO M PAN 7  — ;  NEW  YORK 

15.  RIFLES  AND  RIFLE  SHOOTING, 
by  Charles  Askins.     A  practical  manual  describing 
various  makes  and  mechanisms,  in  addition  to  discuss- 
ing in  detail  the  range  and  limitations  in  the  use  o£ 
the  rifle.    Treats  on  the  every  style  and  make  of  rifle 
as  well  as  their  use.    Every  type  of  rifle  is  discussed  so 
that  the  book  is  complete  in  every  detail. 

16.  SPORTING  FIREARMS,  by  Horace 
Kephart.     This  book  is  the  result  of  painstaking  tests 
and    experiments.      Practically    nothing    is    taken   for 
granted.    Part  I  deals  with  the  rifle,  and  Part  II  with 
the  shotgun.    The  man  seeking  guidance  in  the  selec- 
tion and  use  of  small  firearms,  as  well  as  the  advanced 
student  of  the  subject,  will  receive  an  unusual  amount 
of  assistance  from  this  work. 

17.  THE  YACHTSMAN'S  HANDBOOK, 
by  Herbert  L.  Stone.    The  author  and  compiler  of 
this  work  is  the  editor  of  "Yachting."    He  treats  in 
simple  language  of  the  many  problems  confronting  the 
amateur  sailor  and  motor  boatman.    Handling  ground 
tackle,  handling  lines,  taking  soundings,  the  use  of  the 
lead  line,  care  and  use  of  sails,  yachting  etiquette,  are 
all  given  careful  attention.    Some  light  is  thrown  upon 
the  operation  of  the  gasoline  motor,  and  suggestions 
are  made  for  the  avoidance  of  engine  troubles. 

18.  SCOTTISH  AND  IRISH  TERRIERS, 
by  Williams  Haynes.     This  is  a  companion  book  to 
"The  Airedale,"  and  deals  with  the  history  and  develop- 
ment of  both  breeds.    For  the  owner  of  the  dog,  valu- 
able information  is  given  as  to  the  use  of  the  terriers, 
their  treatment  in  health,  their  treatment  when  sick,  the 
principles  of  dog  breeding,  and  dog  shows  and  rules. 

19.  NAVIGATION     FOR    THE     AMA- 
TEUR, by  Capt.  E.  T.  Morton.    A  short  treatise 
on  the  simpler  methods  of  finding  position  at  sea  by 
the  observation  of  the  sun's  altitude  and  the  use  of  the 
sextant  and  chronometer.    It  is  arranged  especially  for 
yachtsmen  and  amateurs  who  wish  to  know  the  simpler 
formulae  for  the  necessary  navigation  involved  in  tak- 
ing a  boat  anywhere  off  shore.    Illustrated. 

21 


OUTINO  PUBLISHING  COMPANY --NEW  YORK 

20.  OUTDOOR     PHOTOGRAPHY,     by 
Julian  A.  Dimock.     A  solution  of  all  the  problems  in 
camera  work  out-of-doors.    The  various  subjects  dealt 
with  are:     The  Camera— Lens  and  Plates—Light  and 
Exposure — Development — Prints  and  Printing,  etc. 

21.  PACKING    AND    PORTAGING,    by 
Dillon  Wallace.     Mr.  Wallace  has  brought  together 
in  one  volume  all  the  valuable  information  on  the  differ- 
ent ways  of  making  and  carrying  the  different  kinds 
of    packs.    The    ground    covered    ranges    from    man- 
packing  to  horse-packing,  from  the  use  of  the  tump 
line  to  throwing  the  diamond  hitch. 

22.  THE  BULL  TERRIER,  by  Williams 
Haynes.     This  is  a  companion  book  to  "The  Airedale" 
and  "Scottish  and  Irish  Terriers"  by  the  same  author. 
Its  greatest  usefulness  is  as  a  guide  to  the  dog  owner 
who  wishes  to  be  his  own  kennel  manager.    A  full  ac- 
count of  the  development  of  the  breed  is  given  with  a 
description  of  best  types  and  standards.    Recommen- 
dations for  the  care  of  the  dog  in  health  or  sickness  are 
included. 

23.  THE   FOX    TERRIER,    by   Williams 
Haynes.    As  in  his  other  books  on  the  terrier,  Mr. 
Haynes  takes  up  the  origin  and  history  of  the  breed,  its 
types  and  standards,  and  the  more  exclusive  representa- 
tives down  to  the  present  time.     Training  the  Fox  Ter- 
rier— His  Care  and  Kenneling  in  Sickness  and  Health — 
and  the  Various  Uses  to  Which  He  Can  Be  Put — are 
among  the  phases  handled. 

24.  SUBURBAN    GARDENS,    by    Grace 
Tabor.     Illustrated   with   diagrams.    The    author   re- 
gards the  house  and  grounds  as  a  complete  unit  and 
shows  how  the  best  results  may  be  obtained  by  carrying 
the  reader  in  detail  through  the  various  phases  of  de- 
signing the  garden,  with  the  levels  and  contours  neces- 
sary, laying  out  the  walks  and  paths,  planning  and  plac- 
ing the  arbors,  summer  houses,  seats,  etc.,  and  selecting 
and  placing  trees,  shrubs,  vines  and  flowers.    Ideal  plans 
for  plots  of  various  sizes  are  appended,  as  well  as  sug- 
gestions for  correcting  mistakes  that  have  been  made 
through  "starting  wrong." 


OUTING  PUBLISHING  COMPANY  — NEW  YORK 

25.  FISHING  WITH  FLOATING  FLIES, 
by  Samuel  G.  Camp.    This  is  an  art  that  is  compara- 
tively new  in  this  country  although  English  anglers 
have  used  the  dry  fly  for  generations.    Mr.  Camp  has 
given  the  matter  special  study  and  is  one  of  the  few 
American  anglers  who  really  understands  the  matter 
from  the  selection  of  the  outfit  to  the  landing  of  the 
fish. 

26.  THE  GASOLINE  MOTOR,  by  Harold 
Whiting  Slauson.    Deals  with  the  practical  problems 
of  motor  operation.    The  standpoint  is  that  of  the  man 
who  wishes  to  know  how  and  why  gasoline  generates 
power  and  something  about  the  various  types.    De- 
scribes in  detail  the  different  parts  of  motors  and  the 
faults  to  which  they  are  liable.    Also  gives  full  direc- 
tions as  to  repair  and  upkeep. 

27.  ICE  BOATING,  by  H.  L.  Stone.    Illus- 
trated with   diagrams.    Here   have   been  brought   to- 
gether all  the  available  information  on  the  organization 
and  history  of  ice-boating,  the  building  of  the  various 
types  of  ice  yachts,  from  the  small  15  footer  to  the 
600-foot  racer,  together  with  detailed  plans  and  specifi- 
cations.   Full  information  is  also  given  to  meet  the 
needs  of  those  who  wish  to  be  able  to  build  and  sail 
their  own  boats  but  are  handicapped  by  the  lack  of 
proper  knowledge  as  to  just  the  points  described  in 
this  volume. 

28.  MODERN  GOLF,  by  Harold  H.  Hil- 
ton.    Mr.  Hilton  is  the  only  man  who  has  ever  held 
the   amateur  championship   of  Great  Britain  and  the 
United  States  in  the  same  year.    This  book  gives  the 
reader  sound  advice,  not  so  much  on  the  mere  swing- 
ing of  the  clubs  as  in  the  actual  playing  of  the  game, 
with  all  the  factors  that  enter  into  it.    He  discusses 
the  use  of  wooden  clubs,  the  choice  of  clubs,  the  art 
of  approaching,  and  kindred  subjects. 

29.  INTENSIVE    FARMING,    by    L.    C. 
Corbett.     A  discussion  of  the  meaning,  method  and 
value  of  intensive  methods  in  agriculture.    This  book  is 
designed  for  the  convenience  of  practical  farmers  who 
find  themselves  under  the  necessity  of  making  a  living 
out  of  high-priced  land. 

23 


OUTING  PUBLISHING  COMPA2fT  —  NEW  YORK 

30.  PRACTICAL   DOG  BREEDING,  by 
Williams  Haynes.    This  is  a  companion  volume  to 
PRACTICAL  DOG  KEEPING,  described  below.     It 
goes  at  length  into  the  fundamental  questions  of  breed- 
ing, such  as  selection  of  types  on  both  sides,  the  per- 
petuation of  desirable,  and  the  elimination  of  undesir- 
able qualities,  the  value  of  prepotency  in  building  up  a 
desired  breed,  etc. 

31.  PRACTICAL    DOG    KEEPING,    by 
Williams  Haynes.    Mr.  Haynes  is  well  known  to  the 
readers  of  the  OUTING  HANDBOOKS  as  the  author 
of  books  on  the  terriers.    His  new  book  is  somewhat 
more  ambitious  in  that  it  carries  him  into  the  general 
field  of  selection  of  breeds,  the  buying  and  selling  of 
dogs,  the  care  of  dogs  in  kennels,  handling  in  bench 
shows  and  field  trials,  and  at  considerable  length  into 
such  subjects  as  food  and  feeding,  exercise  and  groom- 
ing, disease,  etc. 

32.  THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN,  by  R. 
L.  Watts.    This  book  is  designed  for  the  small  grower 
with  a  limited  plot  of  ground.    The  reader  is  told  what 
types  of  vegetables  to  select,  the  manner  of  planting  and 
cultivation,  and  the  returns  that  may  be  expected. 

33.  AMATEUR  RODMAKING,  by  Perry 
D.  Frazer.    Illustrated.    A   practical   manual  for  all 
those  who  want  to  make  their  own  rod  and  fittings.    It 
contains  a  review  of  fishing  rod  history,  a  discussion 
of  materials,  a  list  of  the  tools  needed,  description  of 
the  method  to  be  followed  in  making  all  kinds  of  rods, 
including    fly-casting,    bait-fishing,    salmon,    etc.,   with 
full  instructions  for  winding,  varnishing,  etc. 

34.  PISTOL  AND  REVOLVER  SHOOT- 
ING, by  A.  L.  A.  Himmelwright.    A  new  and  re- 
vised edition  of  a  work  that  has  already  achieved  prom- 
inence as  an  accepted  authority  on  the  use  of  the  hand 
gun.    Full  instructions  are  given  in  the  use  of  both 
revolver  and  target  pistol,  including  shooting  position, 
grip,  position  of  arm,  etc.    The  book  is  thoroughly  il- 
lustrated with  diagrams  and  photographs  and  includes 
the  rules  of  the  United  States  Revolver  Association  and 
a  list  of  the  records  made  both  here  and  abroad. 

24 


OUTING  PUBLISHING  COMPANY  — NEW  YORK 

35.  PIGEON    RAISING,   by   Alice   Mac- 
Leod.    This  is  a  book  for  both  fancier  and  market 
breeder.    Full  descriptions  are  given  of  the  construc- 
tion of  houses,  the  care  of  the  birds,  preparation  for 
market,  and  shipment,  of  the  various  breeds  with  their 
markings  and  characteristics. 

36.  FISHING    TACKLE,    by    Perry    D. 
Frazer.     Illustrated.    It  tells  all  the  fisherman  needs 
to  know  about  making  and  overhauling  his  tackle  dur- 
ing the  closed  season  and  gives  full  instructions  for 
tournament  casting  and  fly-casting. 

37.  AUTOMOBILE  OPERATION,  by  A. 
L.  Brennan,  Jr.     Illustrated.     Tells  the  plain  truth 
about  the  little  things  that  every  motorist  wants  to 
know  about  his  own  car.    Do  you  want  to  cure  ignition 
troubles?     Overhaul  and  adjust  your  carbureter?    Keep 
your  transmission  in  order?    Get  the  maximum  wear 
out  of  your  tires?    Do  any  other  of  the  hundred  and 
one  things  that  are  necessary  for  the  greatest  use  and 
enjoyment  of  your  car?    Then  you  will  find  this  book 
useful. 

38.  THE  FOX  HOUND,  by  Roger  D.  Wil- 
liams.   Author  of  "Horse  and  Hound."    illustrat- 
ed.   The  author  is  the  foremost  authority  on  fox  hunt- 
ing and  foxhounds  in  America.    For  years  he  has  kept 
the  foxhound  studbook,  and  is  the  final  source  of  infor- 
mation on  all  disputed  points  relating  to  this  breed. 
His  book  discusses  types,  methods  of  training,  kennel- 
ing, diseases  and  all  the  other  practical  points  relating 
to  the  use  and  care  of  the  hound,  etc. 

39.  SALT  WATER  GAME  FISHING,  by 
Charles  F.  Holder.    Mr.    Holder  covers   the  whole 
field  of  his  subject  devoting  a  chapter  each  to  such  fish 
as  the  tuna,  the  tarpon,  amberjack,  the  sail  fish,  the  yel- 
low-tail, the  king  fish,  the  barracuda,  the  sea  bass  and 
the  small  game  fishes  of  Florida,  Porto  Rico,  the  Pa- 
cific  Coast,  Hawaii,  and  the  Philippines.    The  habits 
and  habitats  of  the  fish  are  described,  together  with  the 
methods  and  tackle  for  taking  them.    Illustrated. 

25 


OUTING  PUBLISHING  COMPANY -^  NEW  YORK 

40.  WINTER  CAMPING,  by  Warwick  S. 
Carpenter.    A  book  that  meets  the  increasing  interest 
in  outdoor  life  in  the  cold  weather.    Mr.  Carpenter  dis- 
cusses  such   subjects  as  shelter   equipment,   clothing, 
food,  snowshoeing,  skiing,  and  winter  hunting,  wild  life 
in  winter  woods,  care  of  frost  bite,  etc.    Illustrated. 

41.  *WOODCRAFT   FOR   WOMEN,   by 
Mrs.  Kathrene  Gedney  Pinkerton.    The  author  has 
spent  several  years  in  the  Canadian  woods  and  is  thor- 
oughly familiar  with  the  subject  from  both  the  mascu- 
line and  feminine  point  of  view.     She  gives  sound  tips 
on  clothing,  camping  outfit,  food  supplies,  and  methods, 
by  which  the  woman  may  adjust  herself  to  the  outdoor 
environment. 

42.  *SMALL  BOAT  BUILDING,  by  H. 
W.  Patterson.     Illustrated  with  diagrams  and  plans. 
A  working  manual  for  the  man  who  wants  to  be  his 
own    designer    and    builder.     Detail    descriptions    and 
drawings  are  given  showing  the  various  stages  in  the 
building,  and  chapters  are  included  on  proper  materials 
and  details. 

43.  READING  THE  WEATHER,  by  T. 
Morris  Longstreth.    The  author  gives  in  detail  the 
various  recognized  signs  for  different  kinds  of  weather 
based  primarily  on  the  material  worked  out  by  the  Gov- 
ernment Weather  Bureau,  gives  rules  by  which  the  char- 
acter and  duration  of  storms  may  be  estimated,  and 

S'ves  instructions  for  sensible  use  of  the  barometer, 
e  also  gives  useful  information  as  to  various  weather 
averages  for  different  parts  of  the  country,  at  different 
times  of  the  year,  and  furnishes  sound  advice  for  the 
camper,  sportsman,  and  others  who  wish  to  know  what 
they  may  expect  in  the  weather  line. 

44.  BOXING,  by  D.  C.  Hutchison.   Practi- 
cal instruction  for  men  who  wish  to  learn  the  first  steps 
in  the  manly  art.    Mr.  Hutchison  writes  from  long  per- 
sonal experience  as  an  amateur  boxer  and  as  a  trainer 
of  other  amateurs.    His  instructions  are  accompanied 
with  full  diagrams  showing  the  approved  blows  and 
guards.    He  also  gives  full  directions  for  training  for 
condition  without  danger  of  going  stale  from  overtrain* 
ing.    It  is  essentially  a  book  for  the  amateur. 

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OUTING  PUBLISHING  COMPANY  — NEW  YORK 

45.  TENNIS  TACTICS,  by  Raymond  D. 
Little.     Out  of  his  store  of  experience  as  a  successful 
tennis  player,  Mr.  Little  has  written  this  practical  guide 
for  those  who  wish  to  know  how  real  tennis  is  played. 
He  tells  the  reader  when  and  how  to  take  the  net,  dis- 
cusses the  relative  merits  of  the  back-court  and  volley- 
ing game  and  how  their  proper  balance  may  be  achiev- 
ed; analyzes  and  appraises  the  twist  service,  shows  the 
fundamental  necessities  of  successful  doubles  play. 

46.  HOW  TO  PLAY  TENNIS,  by  James 
Burns.    This  book  gives  simple,  direct  instruction  from 
the  professional  standpoint  on  the  fundamentals  of  the 
game.    It  tells  the  reader  how  to  hold  his  racket,  how 
to  swing  it  for  the  various  strokes,  how  to  stand  and 
how  to  cover  the  court    These  points  are  illustrated 
with  photographs  and  diagrams.    The  author  also  illus- 
trates the  course  of  the  ball  in  the  progress  of  play  and 
points  out  the  positions  of  greatest  safety  and  greatest 

47.  TAXIDERMY,  by  Leon  L.  Pray.      Il- 
lustrated with  diagrams.    Being  a  practical  taxidermist, 
the  author  at  once  goes  into  the  question  of  selection 
of  tools  and  materials  for  the  various  stages  of  skin- 
ning, stuffing  and  mounting.    The  subjects  whose  hand- 
ling is  described  are,  for  the  most  part,  the  every-day 
ones,  such  as  ordinary  birds,  small  mammals,  etc.,  al- 
though adequate  instructions  are  included  for  mounting 
big  game  specimens,  as  well  as  the  preliminary  care  of 
skins  in  hot  climates.    Full  diagrams  accompany  the 
text. 

48.  THE     CANOE— ITS     SELECTION, 
CARE  AND  USE,  by  Robert  E.  Pinkerton.      Il- 
lustrated with  photographs.    With  proper  use  the  canoe 
is  one  of  the  safest  crafts  that  floats.    Mr.  Pinkerton 
tells  how  that  state  of  safety  may  be  obtained.    He  gives 
full  instructions  for  the  selection  of  the  right  canoe  for 
each  particular  purpose  or  set  of  conditions.    Then  he 
tells  how  it  should  be  used  in  order  to  secure  the  maxi- 
mum of  safety,  comfort  and  usefulness.    His  own  lesson 
was  learned  among  the  Indians  of  Canada,  where  pad- 
dling is  a  high  art,  and  the  use  of  the  canoe  almost  as 
much  a  matter  of  course  as  the  wearing  of  moccasins. 

2? 


OUTING  PUBLISHING  COMPANY  — XEW  YORK 

49.  HORSE    PACKING,    by    Charles    J. 
Post.     Illustrated  with  diagrams.    This  is  a  complete 
description  of  the  hitches,  knots,  and  apparatus  used  in 
making  and  carrying  loads  of  various  kinds  on  horse- 
back.   Its  basis  is  the  methods  followed  in  the  West 
and  in  the  American  Army.    The  diagrams  are  full  and 
detailed,  giving  the  various  hitches  and  knots  at  each 
of  the  important  stages  so  that  even  the  novice  can 
follow  and  use  them.     It  is  the  only  book  ever  pub- 
lished on  this  subject  of  which  this  could  be  said.    Full 
description  is  given  of  the  ideal  pack  animal,  as  well  as 
a  catalogue  of  the  diseases  and  injuries  to  which  such 
animals  are  subject 

50.  *LEARNING  TO  SWIM,  by  L.  de  B. 
Handley.    Illustrated.    Constructed  especially  for  the 
beginner  who  has  no  knowledge  of  the  first  steps.    Ex- 
plains the  formation  of  the  strokes,  how  to  acquire  con- 
fidence in  the  water  and  gives  full  details  as  to  the  var- 
ious methods,  including  those  used  by  experts  and  rac- 
ing swimmers. 

51.  *SMALL  BOAT  NAVIGATION,  by 
Lieut.  Com.  F.  W.  Sterling,  U.  S.  N.  Retired. 
Illustrated  with  diagrams.    A  complete  description  of 
the  instruments  and  methods  necessary  in  navigating 
small  boats  in  pilot  waters,  on  soundings,  and  off  shore. 
Describes  the  taking  of  sights  for  position,  the  running 
of  courses,  taking  soundings,  using  the  chart,  plotting 
compass  courses,  etc.    Several  chapters  are  given  over 
to  the  seamanship  side  of  navigation,  explaining  the 
handling  of  small  boats  under  various  conditions. 

52.  *TOURING  AFOOT,  by  DJT.   C.   P. 

Fordyce.  Illustrated.  This  book  is  designed  to 
meet  the  growing  interest  in  walking  trips  and  covers 
the  whole  field  of  outfit  and  method  for  trips  of  varying 
length>  Various  standard  camping  devices  are  de- 
scribed and  outfits  are  prescribed  for  all  conditions. 
It  is  based  on  the  assumption  that  the  reader  will  want 
to  carry  on  his  own  back  everything  that  he  requires 
for  the  trip. 


OUTINQ  PUBLISHING  COMPANY  — NEW  TORK 

53.  THE    MARINE   MOTOR,   by   Lieut. 
Com.  F.  W.  Sterling,  U.  S.  N.  (Ret.).        Illustrated 
with  diagrams.    This  book  is  the  product  of  a  wide  ex- 
perience on  the  engineering  staff  of  the  United  States 
Navy.    It    gives   careful    descriptions   of   the   various 
parts  of  the  marine  motor,  their  relation  to  the  whole 
and  their  method  of  operation;  it  also  describes  the 
commoner  troubles  and  suggests  remedies.    The  prin- 
cipal types  of  engines  are  described  in  detail  with  dia- 
grams.   The  object  is  primarily  to  give  the  novice  a 
good  working  knowledge  of  his  engine,  its  operation 
and  care. 

54.  *THE  BEGINNER'S  BEE  BOOK,  by 
Frank  C.  Pellett.     Illustrated.    This  book  is  design- 
ed  primarily  for  the  small  scale  bee  farmer.    It  discusses 
the  different  varieties  of  bees  and  their  adaptability  to 
different  conditions,  the  construction  of  hives,  care  and 
feeding  at  various  times  of  the  year,  handling  of  bees, 
and  the  types  of  locations  and  feed  most  suitable  for 
bee  culture. 

55.  *THE  POINTER,  by  Williams  Haynes. 
Contains  chapters  on  the  history  and  development  of 
the  breed,  selection  of  dog,  breeding,  kenneling,  and 
training.    Also  contains  information  on  common  sense 
remedies  for  ordinary  diseases. 

56.  *THE  SETTER,  by  Williams  Haynes. 
The  author  takes  up  the  origin  and  history  of  the  breed, 
its  development,  breeding,  kenneling,  and  training.    He 
also  discusses  the  various  diseases  to  which  they  are 
subject  and  treatment  therefor. 

57.  *PRACTICAL   BAIT   CASTING,   by 
Larry  St.  John.    Illustrated.    This  book  deals  with 
tackle  and  methods  used  in  catching  black  bass.    It  is 
based  upon  a  wide  and  varied  experience  in  the  middle 
West,  where  more  bass  fishing  is  done  than  in  any 
other  part  of  the  country. 


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